Mountain Project Logo

Anchors At Powerlinez Without Static Rope?

Original Post
Matt Ritter · · Manhattan, NY · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 15

Planning on switching up my usual day trip to the Gunks with a day trip to Powerlinez for the first time. I'm confident building gear anchors or tree anchors with a cordalette but I don't have a static line. I know at other places, like Peterskill, a static line is pretty important for using those far-back trees to build anchors. Does anyone know if there is enough pro for anchors at Powerlinez without use of a static rope (i.e. cracks, trees close to the edge, etc). It sounds like there are basically no bolts/chains at the top as well, but I'm not sure about that.

Kurt G · · Monticello, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 156

I dont know the area but webbing by the foot is pretty cheap and thats what I use when i cant get close to the edge.

Jack Servedio · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 35

You can do the main twin cracks up the center of the tower wall without using trees (most popular routes) - super easy to build a gear anchor at the top with hand-sized pieces - you can redirect the climber strand off this anchor for a few other climbs as well. Top of Three Bears can be done on some shrubbery and there's a few cracks right at the top.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

Big advantage of taking a static line to Powerlinez . . .
. . . (Matt Murphy opened several of the bestest + boldest most-difficult lines there, so not surprising that he should know) 

. . . (and since Matt is now "going public" about the Lines, I guess it's OK for me now too) . . .

is that you can quickly work several lines from the same anchor (set a ways back from the edge of the cliff) -- by just moving the "business end" of the static rope over.

Since many of the fun lines (of all difficulty grades) at Plinez are short, banging out several close by quickly is the most efficient way to enjoy the best climbing there. Setting the anchor at or close to the cliff edge (even without placing Trad gear !?) just gets on the way.

Ken

LB Edwards · · Austin, TX · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 216

Yeah, you're gonna want a static line. Trees can be pretty far from the cliffs you want to get into the better stuff out there.

Matt Ritter · · Manhattan, NY · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 15

Ended up buying a static line (150ft of 3/8” sterling rope) and it was definitely necessary. Thanks for the beta! Also for anyone else wondering, 150ft was a lot. I probably would have been fine with 70ft, as Matt recommended. I spent the day at Tower Wall Area and found a bunch of good moderate trad routes. 

Matt Murphy · · Pearl River, NY · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 215

Good purchase!  Chop her in half, ya'v got static fo eva.

LB Edwards · · Austin, TX · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 216

This reminds me of the time I climbed at the gunks, got to the top and these goons were carrying around a giant link of chains for their top rope anchors... They said that trad gear is too expensive. But what about some static rope? Some people's kids...

Mike R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0
Kurt G wrote:

I dont know the area but webbing by the foot is pretty cheap and thats what I use when i cant get close to the edge.

The rock at Powerlinez is pretty abrasive, I would definitely recommend static over webbing for extra protection against abrasion there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
Post a Reply to "Anchors At Powerlinez Without Static Rope?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.