Ice Screw Comparison Review

Last winter I crunched some numbers when comparing some of the top models of ice screws. If you are interested you can find the details here:

https://northeastalpinestart.com/2017/01/12/ice-screw-comparison-review-and-giveaway/

Four of the five screws in your "Black Diamond Turbo Express" set are not Turbo Express screws, but rather Express screws. The Express screws represent a significant improvement over the previous-generation Turbo Express screws. They feature two carabiner-clip holes rather than one, are not black (so do not melt out as easily), and have a more ergonomic speed knob. The shaft also tapers toward the back, another significant improvement over the Turbo Express screws.

It would be worthwhile revising your review page if you wish to inform viewers. The new ice screw purchaser is likely to be confused when searching for Turbo Express screws, rather than the updated and improved Express screws.

Another important parameter is rackability, where nothing is as good as the BD Express screws. They "nest" better than any other screw out there. The rackability parameter is the main reason why Grivel screws get so little love.

ClimbingOn wrote:

Another important parameter is rackability, where nothing is as good as the BD Express screws. They "nest" better than any other screw out there. The rackability parameter is the main reason why Grivel screws get so little love.

The original 360s were indeed difficult to rack. UNTIL one did about 60 seconds work of setup on them. For me that means 2" loops of 3-4mm cord on each one. Thus equipped I can easliy hang 6 (I've had as many as 8) of them from a single racking biner, and remove them with my thickest gloves on. And BD has yet to come up with a design to equal the 360 when it comes to placing screws in tight spots.  I appreciate BD's latest for the fine pieces they are, but I'm a Grivel fan big time.

That picture of you placing a screw on DOTB is bada$$.

Hands down best climbing pic I've seen in a long time.

ClimbingOn wrote:

 The rackability parameter is the main reason why Grivel screws get so little love.

Agreed. I climbed with some once and hated it. I won't even consider them, regardless of the crazy deals that come up on them sometimes. All things considered my favorite are the Petzl Laser Speed (and light version) screws. Most of my rack is BD Express screws, but I prefer the 4 or 5 Petzl Laser Speed screws by a little. 

Bill Kirby wrote:

That picture of you placing a screw on DOTB is bada$$.

Hands down best climbing pic I've seen in a long time.

Agreed. Amazing shot. 

ClimbingOn wrote:

Four of the five screws in your "Black Diamond Turbo Express" set are not Turbo Express screws, but rather Express screws. The Express screws represent a significant improvement over the previous-generation Turbo Express screws. They feature two carabiner-clip holes rather than one, are not black (so do not melt out as easily), and have a more ergonomic speed knob. The shaft also tapers toward the back, another significant improvement over the Turbo Express screws.

It would be worthwhile revising your review page if you wish to inform viewers. The new ice screw purchaser is likely to be confused when searching for Turbo Express screws, rather than the updated and improved Express screws.

Another important parameter is rackability, where nothing is as good as the BD Express screws. They "nest" better than any other screw out there. The rackability parameter is the main reason why Grivel screws get so little love.

Thanks for catching that! I made some amendments to avoid the confusion!