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climbing in sicily

Original Post
Matt.H Haron · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 185

anyone have any beta on climbing in sicily? I cant find much.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

I haven't been to Sicily to climb but talked with some Americans who lived and climbed there. Word is San Vito lo Capo is the place.

Guidebook: http://www.climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/Sicily-Rock-San-Vito-Sport-Climbing.html

chris vultaggio · · The Gunks · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 540

Also check : https://www.facebook.com/bobosextremeteam/ 

While I didn't climb with any members, they were helpful in pointing me to the right spot.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654
Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Matt.H Haron wrote:

anyone have any beta on climbing in sicily? I cant find much.

I´ve loads of beta, my brother and I have been there about 50 times. In fact it was us that started to bolt the shit out of it, it´s as good as it gets.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654
Jim Titt wrote:

I´ve loads of beta, my brother and I have been there about 50 times. In fact it was us that started to bolt the shit out of it, it´s as good as it gets.

Jim,

Thanks for all your work. We had an amazing time and can't wait for this fall! Hit Jim up if he's offering!

Matt.H Haron · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 185

Thanks guys, Really helpful! And thanks for bolting too!

Daniel Kaye · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 3,938

Some great links/info here, thanks!

I'm debating between climbing in Palermo (I'm flying into Palermo Airport [PMO] later this month) and San Vito Lo Capo - which looks awesome but I'm having trouble figuring out how to get there - is there any way without renting a car?

Also, any suggestions on routes/areas we shouldn't miss and/or your favorite food places would be welcome.

Mee TeeG · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 20

If u go to San Vito, make sure to download the "Climb Advisor" app, and pay the $~10 for the Sicilia section. This has a majority of the crags and individual climbs listed. Also make sure to stop into YMCA San Vito aka the Climbing House to get yr real life beta. 

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Mee TeeG wrote:

If u go to San Vito, make sure to download the "Climb Advisor" app, and pay the $~10 for the Sicilia section. This has a majority of the crags and individual climbs listed. Also make sure to stop into YMCA San Vito aka the Climbing House to get yr real life beta. 

If you go to San Vito buy the Sicily Rock guide (Gebro verlag) as it is the most accurate and up to date guide available. And make sure to go to the Climbing House to make a donation to the bolt fund, the bolting at San Vito was completely privately funded and maintenance is done by Daniel at the Climbing House. 

duncan... · · London, UK · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 55
Jim Titt wrote:

... it´s as good as it gets.

I've only been to Sicily for climbing once, for one week mostly around San Vito, so much less familiar with it than Jim. I am not tempted to return for the climbing. San Vito lo Capo is a decent crag but I didn't think it was anything like the quality of numerous other single pitch sport crags in Spain, France or Greece. I found it a bit scrappy and the ambience is pleasant but not outstanding. I was climbing 5.10-5.11 at the time, the strong suit of this area. A pair of stronger friends had a similar opinion but clearly some like the place. 

I have been to Sicily twice on non-climbing trips and really love the island, the archeology, architecture, and food. I wanted to like the climbing but it didn't grab me. 

The town and campsite was very quiet when we visited in November. I don't know if this is generally the case out of regular holiday times. 

Daniel Kaye · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 3,938

Having visited I must say... I thought it was outstanding. From the small sampling of climbs we tried, I loved the cliffs, the movement, the rocks. I've never been to Spain, France, or Greece, but I've been a few places in North America and I throughout enjoyed the climbing here. Maybe not as good as it gets, I wouldn't know, but the 4km of bolted seaside cliff... the caves, the scenery, some of the other cliffs and mountains... wow.

The town, maybe because it was the off-season, was a pretty big disappointment. Almost nothing was open, and we found it pretty desolate and boring. Some of the neighboring areas we stopped in (like Castellamare dol Golfo) were much more lively and interesting.

Justin Allen · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

I’m hoping to climb 3 or 4 days near Palermo in April. I would be eternally grateful for any info on good trad or sport multi pitch routes for the 5.7 to 5.10 (rating equivalent) climber. Even better, does anyone have the appropriate guidebook? I heard the Di Roccia di Sole book is a good option? If I can borrow the right book (in English) I’d be willing to send you $20 plus the cost of shipping both ways. I can’t find the English version anywhere online. 

Zach Anatta · · Visalia, CA · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

Sicily itself is the shit.  Try to get to Catania if you get the chance.  Less touristy than Palermo.  One of the best cities for chilling out that I know of.  And some of the world’s best food.

Adam Brink · · trying to get to Sardinia · Joined Mar 2001 · Points: 600
Justin Allen wrote: I’m hoping to climb 3 or 4 days near Palermo in April. I would be eternally grateful for any info on good trad or sport multi pitch routes for the 5.7 to 5.10 (rating equivalent) climber. Even better, does anyone have the appropriate guidebook? I heard the Di Roccia di Sole book is a good option? If I can borrow the right book (in English) I’d be willing to send you $20 plus the cost of shipping both ways. I can’t find the English version anywhere online. 

If you have 3 or 4 days I would drive out to San Vito. Palermo is an awesome city but it is super busy and very time consuming to get in and out of. Cragging there would be a lot of car time. Also, San Vito is going to have way more routes in the range you want. And the beaches in san vito are not to be missed.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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