Midwest Ice Conditions-16/17 season

From a friend on Facebook

Munising;
I saw that prelude curtain was climbed right before Xmas, as well as HMR and Bridalveil falls have been climbed so far this season. The true waterfalls are not in. I saw a pic on FB of the Dryer Hose, and it isn't even close which can be normal for this time of year.

The seeps are coming in, and the waterfalls need more time.

Woodchuck ATC wrote: Yes,,the trusty Stallone (Cliffhanger) bolt gun has been upgraded to NOW shoot ice pitons, old Snargs, and even screws right into place, deep into rock or ice! I'm getting one for Christmas,,,next year anyway. Cheers and best luck on ice 'pro, in any conditions on any ice. It's a real test of faith for sure, and trusting your tool placement.

Talking rock gear/bolts not ice gear. Something more permanent would be good for that area...

Didn't get around to posting much around the holiday, but Wyalusing 12/23 was a blast! Met up with Burt and Eric there - ice was pretty wet /slushy in the quarry area and pretty held together by the RR Tracks. Unfortunately got caught in the blizzard on the way home to Chicago burbs, and the crawl home was about 6-7 hours with limited visibility (3.75 normally) before I hit I-90 in Rockford. Was able to piece together a video of the climbing from the clips I was able to get, it features a bit of both routes:

vimeo.com/197056493

jon jugenheimer wrote:From a friend on Facebook

Not good. The big fracture and lots of running water were not there on Friday afternoon. But so far, at least not a total collapse. Hope it reforms quickly.

jon jugenheimer wrote:From a friend on Facebook

Woodchuck ATC wrote: Not good. The big fracture and lots of running water were not there on Friday afternoon. But so far, at least not a total collapse. Hope it reforms quickly.

I wonder if the other canyons would be any good around this weekend. Unlikely with this warm up, I would assume

Historically, Wildcat and Ottowa seem to be the first to form. (Besides French which has been closed now for many years to use.) My pics posted a week ago showed Ottowa in pretty good shape, but nothing happening yet in Tonti. I seldom check on LaSalle due to its small size. Other great ice formations are all closed these years so I dont' even report on how good they may be. I'd guess with the rain and warm days, that most ice is not improving at all the last 6 days.

It would be good to know how often some of the closed canyons would be climbable. A historical record of photographs could be very useful, someday.

I have the photos. I have my own personal record of ice conditions upon each visit I made since 1980. When they busted up the whole park in the 90's to place the senseless 'boardwalks' everywhere, they also chose that as an opportunity to remove needed staircases and not replace,, then close some canyons even to hiking access above, and thus closed them for ice climbing too.

Some of the rare frozen ice formations were only climbed a couple weeks on a certain year that they formed up. Much of the waterflow throughout Wildcat and French canyons drastically changed right at the time the expanded the lodge and built a new water tower. Coincidence, or just climate change? Mid 80s were the absolute best ice years ever, one after another with up to 25 formations total that we climbed. Hennepin Canyon access was limited, but they kept increasing the restrictions and needed personnel for allowing a climb down there.

More ice, better conditions, better access; it's all gone away. I can see maybe 3 to 5 canyons that should be easily accessible if they really chose to allow the climbing to return. Old maps, pics, ice records I've kept for my active years down there. With the lack of dependable ice for most of the last decade or more, I admit I dont' make the visits I did before. By 2000 it was pretty much a one or two visit season at best for me.,,but I tried to keep updated on conditions as best I could.

Does anybody have an update on Gov Dodge? I was at stephens about 10 days ago and would like to head up after the weekend if its still in. Thanks!

Stephens was fat on Tuesday. I'm guessing it's still good to go.

I'm heading to Sandstone New Year's Day, leaving Mpls at 8:30 am, should anyone want to come along

Here is the latest from Munising

downwindsports.com/icefest/…

Can't believe our ice chunk at Nice Ice did not totally melt off. About 1/3rd is left, not climbable, but at least a base to refreeze against starting on Wednesday when the temps drop down on us here for like a week or more again. Maybe we get ice by the 7th. Starved Rock: anyone check on it in last 48 hours?

From a Facebook friend over the weekend.

Awesome that the Cat has held up with at least some ice. Looks very familiar in that shape..as we once climbed it back in early 90s' in similar condition. End of season ice, mudddy spring melt water running down the middle, painting the inside of that 'tunnel' with mud covered shiny big ice crystals, like 'Black Diamonds',,,thus what we called the route that day. Stemmed up all the way, right through the rushing water. THAT'S the kind of 'it's still climbable' decisions we enjoyed having for access back then. A priceless day I'll never forget at SRSP. Hope this tower holds up in this rain and catches some refreeze by mid week cold spell.

Wyalusing again on 12/30. Ice seems to be holding up just fine. A few thinner spots of lightly bonded chandelier ice at the base limit the start, but made for a nice "up, then traverse through a melt-out spot of dripping water, then up again through solid overhanging patch" climb.
Didn't check out the RR track climbs, although another small flow in the park was thin but enough to climb on, give or take a hollow thump sound or two.

Don't have photos, but just got back from a great day climbing Stephen's at Gov Dodge. It seems like the ice melted a bit in the rain/warm temps and then refroze nicely into a uniform mass.

Mikeyy wrote: Wyalusing again on 12/30. Ice seems to be holding up just fine. A few thinner spots of lightly bonded chandelier ice at the base limit the start, but made for a nice "up, then traverse through a melt-out spot of dripping water, then up again through solid overhanging patch" climb. Didn't check out the RR track climbs, although another small flow in the park was thin but enough to climb on, give or take a hollow thump sound or two.

With the extreme cold that arrived in last 24 hours, I'm guessing everything up in Wisc. is freezing up very nicely ..A good week of this cold is expected.

Mikeyy wrote: Wyalusing again on 12/30. Ice seems to be holding up just fine. A few thinner spots of lightly bonded chandelier ice at the base limit the start, but made for a nice "up, then traverse through a melt-out spot of dripping water, then up again through solid overhanging patch" climb. Didn't check out the RR track climbs, although another small flow in the park was thin but enough to climb on, give or take a hollow thump sound or two.

Nice pic of my butt....