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Edelrid OHM
Kyle Tarry wrote: Maybe you need to rephrase this, but this question doesn't make any sense. It's not possible to have a scenario where the first piece has a downward pull (ok, other than falling directly onto it). The first piece will have zero pull (if the rope runs straight through) to varying levels of upward pull depending on the rope angle. Keep in mind that it's not just distance from the wall, but also side-to-side. Ideally we stand right under the first piece, but this isn't always possible. I don't have one, but based on the device and how it works, probably not. It depends on gravity keeping it down for normal situations, and then tension flipping it up to add drag. In a TR situation, this doesn't happen, because there is no "up." You could probably use it in a TR situation on a bolted climb, or with a multidirectional piece, by setting it up as though the leader was leading. You'd need to test it, but this might work. It's pretty easy to add extra friction to a TR setup other ways though, via extra bends, extra wraps, etc.Beats me. You missed the not much sleep bit at the end. Your post sounds right to me. Thanks, Kyle! Helen |
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We took the Ohm out for its first day yesterday with our 9.2mm rope and my wife and I were very impressed. There's a ~75lb weight difference between us and she's accustomed to getting pulled up and around pretty significantly when I fall. I think she was a bit skeptical at first but after my first fall, she was sold. |
Jason Halladay wrote:We took the Ohm out for its first day yesterday and my wife and I were very impressed...Did you feel like it affected pulling up slack quickly to clip? |
will ar wrote: Did you feel like it affected pulling up slack quickly to clip?Great question. I didn't notice an issue but I'm one to pull up slack in shorter, slower pulls. My good friend does fast, long pulls so I'll have to have him try it out. |
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ACCIDENT |
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That sucks to hear Jason, nothing worse than getting injured in the gym! Does your belayer climb with lighter partners very often, IE are they used to jumping to give a soft catch? I know when I've been belaying heavier partners I get used to their weight doing most of the work. I have to be very deliberate about the jump for a 110lb partner when I switch back. Sounds like that will be the case with the OHM also, but it's going to be hard for your partner to time if they don't feel much on the rope. |
alpinejason wrote:ACCIDENT I had a less than ideal first experience with the Ohm yesterday...Gym lead rope, you know the type, maybe 10.5mm?Jason - sorry to hear about your injury. Hope you heal up quick! Getting hurt sucks - getting hurt indoors sucks even more. I'm guessing that the rope diameter may have played a part here. I haven't gotten my hand on an Ohm yet, but am interested to try one out. (I will do so cautiously thanks to your advice.) Watching the videos on Edelrid's page, and looking at the weight difference between you and your partner, I would expect your belayer to get lifted up a bit. That they didn't suggests the Ohm was doing most of the work of catching the fall. A 10.5 is within the range for the device (8.6-11mm), but it is on the high side. I would expect that to make the device a bit more "grabby". I wonder how it would feel with something like a 9.8? |
Rich Farnham wrote: Jason - sorry to hear about your injury. Hope you heal up quick! Getting hurt sucks - getting hurt indoors sucks even more.Getting hurt in the gym sucks for ego, but I would much rather break my ankle in a gym than at the crag with a steep, rocky descent to crawl down. |
alpinejason wrote:ACCIDENT Anecdote Device was set up correctly and clipped to the first bolt. Belayer was located within 4-5 feet of the wall. I took 3 practice falls from about 30-35 feet up. The first two with the bolt about a foot below my waist and a "normal" amount of slack. These were harder than average falls with a whiplash effect pulling me in to the wall, not doubt the Ohm works. The last fall I attempted to get a little more rope in the system hoping for a softer catch so I climbed about 2 feet higher. The route converges with a overhaning dihedral from the right at this point so I also stepped a maybe 1 foot to the left. This fall was as jarring as the first two and being slightly off kilter on this fall because of the converging dihedral I impacted wall hard with my left foot, lateral side almost toe first.similar experience my first couple of falls, sans injury. what makes a HUGE difference is how far the belayer stands from the wall. the further back, the steeper the angle to the OHM and the more fiction the device will take. The closer to the wall, the lesser the angle. note this is why in the instruction manual it says to not belay from directly under the device as the angle will be 0 (or 180) and won't catch at all. We marked on the floor where my partner was standing until he developed an understanding of the angle and belly needed in the rope for both a secure but soft catch. As a note, my wife, much smaller than my partner, stands at a steeper angle (further away) to give me both a secure and soft catch. for her, the belly looks different. we also practiced taking/resting and the device worked wonderfully though still requires some practice to understand its tendencies. |
Anonymous wrote: Possibly a silly question for those already in the know but, what do you mean by "the belly"?when not standing directly under the first draw, the rope is at a give angle between the belay device and first draw. Assuming belayer does not keep the rope perfectly tight between ATC and climber, that length of rope (between ATC and first draw) is not a straight line but rather a curve. Ive heard that curve referred to as "the belly" as it is a somewhat recognizable quantity. For instance, if the climber is above a roof and the belayer is trying to ensure a catch soft enough to clear that roof in case of a fall, looking at the belly would be an indicating of how far the climber will fall prior to ATC engaging. with the OHM, it only works when standing at least 1m away from the first draw. the further away, the more the OHM grabs, and being 2m away the belly becomes evident. tl;dr the belly is the curve in the rope between belayer and first draw when belayer is not under first draw. |
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I've also heard that^^^ called "a smile" |
BigB wrote:I've also heard that^^^ called "a smile"well i guess thats projective of our experiences.... |
Rich Farnham wrote: Jason - sorry to hear about your injury. Hope you heal up quick! Getting hurt sucks - getting hurt indoors sucks even more. I'm guessing that the rope diameter may have played a part here. I haven't gotten my hand on an Ohm yet, but am interested to try one out. (I will do so cautiously thanks to your advice.) Watching the videos on Edelrid's page, and looking at the weight difference between you and your partner, I would expect your belayer to get lifted up a bit. That they didn't suggests the Ohm was doing most of the work of catching the fall. A 10.5 is within the range for the device (8.6-11mm), but it is on the high side. I would expect that to make the device a bit more "grabby". I wonder how it would feel with something like a 9.8?The way the device works, the diameter of the rope really doesnt have much to do with it, its not a normal cam but a rounded v shaped mechanism without moving parts, regardless of the rope you put in within its range it will have the same contact area with the device, im sure bigger ropes will catch a bit more but its not as significant as an ATC on a skinny rope or standard camming belay device. |
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I received one for Christmas and headed to the gym today excited to try it out. Took one practice fall and was very impressed. A gym employee then came over and began discussing the ohm, saying it looked pretty good and he watched the fall and liked what he saw. A few minutes later he came back to tell us that the higher ups had told him not to let us use it anymore. Apparently they want to evaluate it first before allowing it. Anyway, super disappointed and I'm going to be very upset if they don't change that policy soon as it wasn't cheap and it really would increase my level of safety since one of my regular partners is quite small and I am not. |
will ar wrote: Did you feel like it affected pulling up slack quickly to clip?the only time we have found it to be an issue pulling slack clip is when the belayer is too far from the wall. the angle is too steep and the device then starts to "flip." funny thing is my wife stands further back from the wall than my partner does and with my partner has been the only time the device shorted me (note that even getting shorted by the device rope still comes out, just slower). so obviously theres a technique variable in there too. we've had the device for two weeks or so now and Ive been using it everytime i lead. haven't used it outdoors with our lead ropes (9.6 opposed to the gym ropes I assume are around 10). Also really curious about trad, not so much building a multi-directional first piece, but more interested in if its going to put more force on the gear as the catch is technically harder. |
pbrownw wrote:A gym employee then came over and began discussing the ohm, saying it looked pretty good and he watched the fall and liked what he saw. A few minutes later he came back to tell us that the higher ups had told him not to let us use it anymore. Apparently they want to evaluate it first before allowing it.Our experience with Ohm at Vertical Adventures, Columbus, OH, was very positive. The owner came over, expressed his interest, chatted, allowed as the use of device. Staff were really impressed how effective Ohm was at mitigating weight difference between a heavy climber and light belayer. |
Jake Jones wrote:Anyone know where to get one of these? I'm trying backcountry but they're telling me no.Our "local" gym, Stone Age Climbing Gym in Albuquerque, had some in stock last month. Not sure if they ship em out but if all else fails, perhaps worth a call to them to try? I'll be at the gym in couple weeks if you're still outta luck by then. |
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Mountain Equipment Co-op in Canada has them. |
Jake Jones wrote:Thanks Khoi. I'll hold off though. $180 shipped is a bit steep.But that's in Canadian $ xe.com/currencyconverter/co… I reckon you can get at least $1.25 Canadian for your U.S. $ |
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Usage update - works quite well for top-roping with big climber-belayer weight difference. |
