Castleton Tower 8/17-8/20

Hi all,

I'm on a roadtrip until 8/20, slowly making my way home towards Arizona and was thinking about trying to bag a desert tower to cap off the trip. It seems the weather is starting to cool off a bit (as in not in the 100+ deg) and with some afternoon shade or early morning starts we may be able to beat the heat (plus no lines?).

I am currently comfortable leading 5.8 trad and am slowly working into the .9's. I would prefer to partner up with someone who is climbing stronger than me as most of the routes it appears are in the 9+/10a range. I will also follow up to 10b/c trad if you want to do a different route, but I am currently looking at the Korengall Route (.9+).

I am a certified EMT-b and have taken multiple privately guided AMGA multipitch/self-rescue courses. I'll be in Durango, CO the next few days but can head over depending on your availability.

Let me know, thanks!

Dan Evans
206.355.3064

For some perspective if you haven't climbed in the desert before. At the time I was leading 10's on potash road. Kor Ingals was terrifying and felt super hard given my lack of chimney/OW experience. Best of luck

Fair enough thanks. I'm up for North Chimney too. Sounds like it is a bit easier.

Not sure N. Chimney is easier. Different but probably not easier.

Go for Kor Ingals. Pitches 1,2 and 4 are fine. You'll have no problem. Pitch 3 is hard but I am skinny and was able to squeeze into the crack and chimney up instead of taking the OW crux head on. What's the worst that can happen?

Corey O. wrote: What's the worst that can happen?

I didn't mention it before but it was on P3 when I took a little fall at the crux, tore my labrum, and dislocated my shoulder. Once I popped it back in, and realized I wasn't going to be able to do the crux move, then I squeezed in the crack. Fun times on a fun route! =)

Definitely do Castelton! But find a partner that can do most of the leading.

Even though I had climbed at Vedauwoo a lot, leading the third pitch OW crux stumped me, so I laybacked past it. The calcite was glass smooth, but extra opposition and small moves worked.

Kor Ingalls is south facing and can be quite warm mid-day. With an alpine start, though, you will probably be in the shade the entire route.

The first time I climbed the route I started the approach at sunrise and rope soloed the route. Nobody else showed up at the base until I was on the 4th pitch. But that was in April, not August; I imagine most people start pretty early in August.