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New Sport routes on Duncan's Ridge ?

Ken Duncan · · Ft Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 5,730

K- grace wrote: It is only natural that people would want to see increased accessibility there. It seems to me like that's exactly what happened here. Bolts were put up, yes, but not in a manner that impinges on the choices of anyone who would prefer to climb trad.

Using this argument the next step is to chip holds on all the hard problems so everyone can climb them. Then those who want to climb the natural line can just avoid the chipped holds. Different issue but the same argument.

FCJohn · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 802

Ah. Mr. McBride, Board Member of the NCCC.

Glad to see another board member of the NCCC show up.

What say you about my early questions?

I hope as a member of the board you'd take the time to respond to a member of your constituent base on these important issues.

These are very important questions that need answering before any so called "vote" on the future of Duncan's ridge and further more, considering that NCCC just received "approval to maintain the area" there are very legitimate questions that I and many other members of the community now have about NCCC's fitness to manage this or any other climbing area moving forward and the status of the fragile public trust that the community places in the organization.

Please do take the time to respond here.

Let's all get some work done at the trail day in a few hours, and there is no need to rabble rouse while we have all have pick-axes and sledge hammers in hand, but this isn't going to be the last time that these questions are asked....and I hope that some one from the board is prepared to answer it at Snowbank.

_________________________________________________

A question offered in the form of an open letter for the NCCC board:

Do you continue to plan to endorse Ryan’s actions and support Ryan Nelson as a credible mouthpiece and representative for your board?

Let me recap:
A sitting board member of the NCCC, without attempting to seek consensus on the front end, unilaterally decided to make a wholesale conversion of historically relevant boulder problems into sport routes.

Actions of which, the NCCC President described as “was a bit overboard”

Ryan then gets called out overwhelmingly in this thread…. to his credit, meets with some of the most historically relevant(I do not personally include myself in this group) climbers in the community, agrees to pull the bolts and is now attempting to back track by holding a straw poll at the trail day to determine if the NCCC should keep the bolts?

Despite the NCCC badge as his profile picture, does Ryan represent the values (stewardship, history, tradition, respect, and trust) that the climbing community trusts the NCCC to uphold?

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

I've never climbed Duncans, pretty sure I never will. Personally, I think Ryan fucked up.
However, from an impartial point of view, it seems like Ryan is offering up a time and place of public forum and the nay-Sayers are just pouting. If you're that against it show up. Speak your mind. Put this to rest. Jesus fucking Christ.
Isn't this trail day todAy?

Nathan McBride · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 15

FC John - Hope the trail day goes well, I work in Parks & Open Space Wed-Sat and it's hard to find people who are able to do cover my specific position, so unfortunately I will not be making it to the trail day. I hope it's a great turn out. I do however have time for a discussion. Now that the trail day is on and things may be ironed out today or tonight, I'm not sure how active this thread will be. Thanks for heading out today and putting in some hard work. I'll send you a PM.

Ben Scott · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 4,017

From the entire NCCC Board:

As climbing’s popularity continues to rise, NCCC, in partnership with Larimer County, are focused on protecting Duncan’s from climbers’ impacts. Resource protection and public safety are legal mandates that the County works with the NCCC to address.

The County and NCCC ultimately determined that using top anchors to reduce erosion and promote public safety was necessary to protect the resource and public access. Additionally, the County approved lead bolts and fully authorized their use at the discretion of NCCC. Ultimately, top anchors were placed to reduce erosion around the cliff tops and promote public safety. Lead bolts were also installed with the intention that the main user group were beginner rock climbers who wanted a beginner level lead climb.

NCCC failed to anticipate the anger that the lead bolts caused. Several local climbers expressed their outrage with the lead bolts and a heated discussion ensued. Despite ongoing dialogue, virtual threats became reality and the hangers on most of the lead bolts were stolen.

NCCC handed out a survey at the Duncan’s Ridge Trail Day asking a variety of questions but the main one being “Do you approve of the installed Lead Climbing Bolts at Duncan’s Ridge?”. A total of 28 people participated in the survey. 25 of those individuals approved of having the lead bolts, where as only 3 people were against.

While no individual has taken credit for the theft of the hangers, the same local climbers have made it clear that under any circumstances, if the lead bolts are replaced, they too will be “chopped.”

NCCC apologies for not proactively seeking specific community input prior to installing bolts at Duncan’s. NCCC refuses to turn Duncan’s Ridge into a new battleground for the archaic “bolt wars.” NCCC has removed the lead bolts and patched the holes appropriately. NCCC supports all climbers and will continue to work with the entire climbing community to protect and promote climbing in Northern Colorado. This was an eye-opening experience for the NCCC Board and it has learned a lot of valuable lessons. NCCC Board is working on being more transparent and hopefully that will be seen in our actions in the coming months ahead.

Ryan Nelson’s status as a Board member has been questioned by many people in the community. The Board took Ryan’s actions very seriously and came to the conclusion that we needed to have an internal vote about whether he stays on or not. The results of the vote were that Ryan will continue to sit on the Board of the NCCC. Ryan’s dedication to Northern Colorado Rock Climbing is unsurpassed and we all felt the community as a whole would benefit more from Ryan continuing to do work for the NCCC. People make mistakes, but what really counts is what you learn from them and how you move forward in the future.

Please send us an email if you have any further questions.

NCCC
nococlimbers@gmail.com

Jason Tarry · · Fort Collins · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 460

Anyone can back this response. Thanks for the NCCC for responding with such leadership.

Ken Duncan · · Ft Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 5,730

Thanks NCCC and especially Ben for your response and leadership on this issue. This action will definitely help keep the community together.

ken gibson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 0
Ken Duncan wrote:Thanks NCCC and especially Ben for your response and leadership on this issue. This action will definitely help keep the community together.

Well said Ken. Thanks for helping move big rocks last weekend.

Ben/Ryan, it takes a lot of strength to come on this site with a well written mea culpa and I applaud you for doing it. The NCCC will survive and will be stronger for it.
Jorge Pantalones · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 85

+1 !!

bus driver · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,531

What a cluster. I havent climbed there but it sounds like a less fun crag than it was with the bolts. I did climb at the geezer wall here in bcc after the similar bolt war shitstorm died down and enjoyed a fun day of clipping the bolts and not having to deal with a rack of gear. It kind of sucks when a 5.12 climber climbs a classic 5.7 route without bolts and then it becomes forbidden from becoming a classic leadable route for people who want routes like that just because the fa didn't need them. Generally 5.7 climbers are not putting up routes for themselves.

Joseph Crotty · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Nov 2002 · Points: 2,102

Thank you NCCC, Ben and Ryan for working with local resource stake holders tirelessly. I am ever thankful you are there for us!

Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 285

Thank you Ben, Ryan and NCCC

taipan jam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 30

I agree more with bus driver, but I also applaud Ryan. If bolts are to be chopped, it is nice to see things turn "full circle" I guess...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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