Getting rid of Elbow Tendonitis from climbing
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After suffering from elbow tendonitis due to climbing (for almost a year now), a friend sent me an article on how to get rid of "climber's elbow" via specific stretches and exercises. |
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I'd definitely do the stretches to help your tendonitis but I tend to shy away from any sort of supplement/cream/healing remedy other than a multi-vitamin and healthy eating. |
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Yup, these exercises are the protocol pretty much. Although I just got done with a 6 month break from climbing, doing these eccentric exercises every day, and my tendonitis is still there. The pain is only ever maybe a 2 or so but I can't get it to go away. |
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The TheraBand FlexBar has been pretty much miraculous for fixing my elbow tendinitis. YMMV but my chronic elbow pain went away almost immediately once I started doing the Tyler Twist exercise with the green flex bar. |
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flex bar all the way |
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Dr Julian Saunders: Dodgy Elbows
I've always thought this is the black book of elbow pain. Also, might clear up some miss conceptions that the article you posted makes, specifically reverse wrist curls vs eccentric contractions. Different pain calls for different fixes, but most elbow pain boils down to weak epicondylosis tendon being stressed by muscles (mostly in the forearm) that have become too strong to fast. Understanding how to do eccentric contractions for both medial and lateral (depends on your issues, but I do both) epicondylitis is key. You need to work on strengthening the tendon not the muscles. Technique also plays into it. Crimping will keep the demon alive and well if it's your staple grip. Locking-off will be a similar evil. Last, I have had success in the stages of bad pain by deeply massaging the tendons (and crying a little). Trace the tendon from between your elbow and the pointy bone where it hurts and using another solid object, deeply massage the sore spot you'll find. Hopefully someone that knows all this stuff for real will weigh in, but that is my experience. I just had a boulder problem make mine (lateral) flare up, narrow compression is a killer for me. After 3 weeks I was able to take the trip I planned to Red Rock without any issues. |
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I've taken Elbow Revive, the supplement mentioned in the article, and definitely felt some improvement. Granted I was also doing stretches and resting it as much as possible. Also, I think that the glucosamine, chondroitin, and MSM combo that's in Elbow Revive helped (it's pretty standard for any good joint supplement). Overall, I'd say give it a shot because I got some relief from it. My "climber's elbow" or tendinitis or whatever, was gone after about a month and a half with this. But make sure you don't put all your eggs in one basket and also do the stretches. Good luck. |
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Elbow Revive works well. Best if you take it at first sign of injury. Acupuncture helps too. |
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I had this last june. |
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Agreed. A supplement like Elbow Revive might help speed up the healing process but adequate rest is key for total recovery. |
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do this and youll be climbing the next day, seriously. |
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I battle this all the time, especially everytime I think I can climb in the gym. |
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mobes - what thera bands should I get? Set? my shit is messed up... |
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I haven't read this thread carefully so apologies if this has been mentioned. There was a blurb in Climbing mag about elbow tendonitis vs tendonosis. The former gets better with rest; the latter doesn't (and sounds like what I battle with). That was good insight to me, along with the advice about how to treat tendonosis. |
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After dealing with persistent tendinitis for a few years, I realized that I didn't really know how to rest. Light climbing is not resting. Mtn biking is not resting. The advice on this page looks correct, but incomplete. It should specify how and how long to rest. |
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Morgan Patterson wrote:mobes - what thera bands should I get? Set? my shit is messed up...I have the set but only use the red and green |
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This is the only thing I've found to virtually eliminate my teondonitis in my elbows and wrists (with regular use of course) armaid.com/ |
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Quillin wrote:This is the only thing I've found to virtually eliminate my teondonitis in my elbows and wrists (with regular use of course) armaid.com/Pretty much a fancy version of the stick from the video, works for sure. Massage is way better than stretching once the tendonitis sets in. |
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Trevor. wrote:The TheraBand FlexBar has been pretty much miraculous for fixing my elbow tendinitis. YMMV but my chronic elbow pain went away almost immediately once I started doing the Tyler Twist exercise with the green flex bar.+1 For the FlexBar. It hasn't completely eliminated my tendinitis yet, but has helped better than all the other "tips" I've read and done. It's helping me continue to climb and if I use it after a session, I'm good-to-go the next day. I also take turmeric capsules for inflammation, ice it afterwards and massage the sore area in my elbow between climbs to help with blood flow and work the soreness out. Seems to be working but it has been a slow healing process. Don't expect instant healing (in my situation at least). Good luck... |
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On top of stretching, and definitely the thera flexbar, I also do Way of the Iron Fist. Keeps my forearms and fingers strong and healthy. |
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+1 Armaid |