What Nobody is Saying About the Dawn Wall

So, interesting thought at the link below about the Dawn Wall. What do people out in MP land think about this?

What Nobody is Saying About the Dawn Wall - Fringe's Folly

So some old guy wishes there was more adventure and less press involved. Apparently, though, the route is hard and in fact the totally ground-supported, fixed, ticked, rehearsed way the boys are going about it is actually the BEST STYLE POSSIBLE thus far.

I invite you do do better. I bet Tommy and Kevin do too.

Rob Dillon wrote:So some old guy wishes there was more adventure and less press involved. Apparently, though, the route is hard and in fact the totally ground-supported, fixed, ticked, rehearsed way the boys are going about it is actually the BEST STYLE POSSIBLE thus far. I invite you do do better. I bet Tommy and Kevin do too.

Couldn't agree more. Another point I would add is that Warren Hading and Royal Robbins got WAY WAY WAY more publicity and fame for their ascents on El Cap. Their names were known nationwide, but I guarantee hardly anyone outside the climbing community will ever hear of Tommy and Kevin.

Diminishing the sends of others to aggrandize your own game is Climbing 101.

Thanks Rob! I've always wanted to be that crotchety old guy!

It definitely crossed my mind how silly it would be to pass judgement upon something I could never do... That's kind of what mountainproject is famous for, and it's generally super obnoxious.

That said, I think it often frustrates people enough to get out and actually speak their minds about something, which is really what the piece is intended to do.

The question is not whether Kevin and Tommy should be doing something different - but whether we, as a community, should be. Is there a point at which we need to cut off our own zealous mongering of the stories pros have to tell in order to keep the sport authentic, or meaningful, to its practicing masses? That's the question I really mean to ask.

Hmmm.....pretty tough to dedicate 6 years of your life to a project and not get some financial support or compensation. Not saying that Kevin and Tommy are in this endeavor for $$$, but as professional athletes some media coverage (NY Times, Big Up...) is necessary in order to make a living and make this project happen.

You don't like their style.......grab your shoes, chalk bag, rope and show us how it's supposed to be done according to your rules/ethics OR JUST STICK YOUR HEAD IN THE SAND AND IGNORE IT.

Chris,

It is what it is. With every push of the limits, there has also been a push of the techniques, style and ethics. There are a few notable exceptions, of course, but that's what climbing is about.

My gentle suggestion would be to relax about it, pay no attention to it and go climb the way you like to climb.

Mal

And as far as all the press, tweeting, etc: feel free to ignore it. No doubt when Gutenberg first corrupted the purity of the transcribed Word, there was some cruster crying about the loss of the illuminated tradition. But a whole lot more people else got to 'participate', and that's pretty cool in its own way.

Thanks Malcolm.

I think you're right. I may have misrepresented myself in the piece a little, if I come off unrelaxed about the whole thing. It is mere curiosity that fueled me to write this and share it. See a phenomenon, and wonder why it is the way it is, and what it can tell us about the way things might be.

At the least, it is always interesting to bounce your ideas off of others. As John Stuart Mill said, (and I can't find the quote, but essentially) "an idea not subjected to the rigors of scrutiny is not one worth having" or something like that.

either way. Great read, well written article.., and incredible push by tommy and kevin right now.

But yeah Chris, I don't want to be a jerk. I think we'd all do well to make sure to balance our diets of vicarious hype with some solo treks to mossy boulders and obscure scrambles. As long as you're getting out there on your own for whatever constitutes 'adventure' in your personal realm, I don't see the harm in following along with the boys.

And I really appreciated your piece about Heidi last month. Thanks for putting that up.

Chris Kalman wrote:So, interesting thought at the link below about the Dawn Wall...

You should've had the courage to make it clear you wrote that "interesting" BS in your OP...

Unless you have climbed multiple pitches of 5.14 on a big wall and spent 2 weeks on El Cap, you probably don't have the slightest idea of the difficulty, and hardship these guys face daily. Just from the dedication and perseverance Tommy and Kevin have shown over the years to keep trying a route that may or may not go, but to attempt to push climbing to the next level and do what many would call impossible, is inspiring.
The media has jumped all over this and I would bet that Tommy and Kevin would much prefer that it was just them up there focusing on the climbing, but if they send, it will be the hardest rock route in the world and everyone wants a piece of it. I personally have enjoyed the coverage and reading about their progress and followed it since Tommy began the route many years ago. Go Tommy and Kevin!

i agree w/ reboot - kinda lame that you are presenting this in a third person sort of way...

i think i will sum it up by quoting you directly "...I won’t be that armchair mountaineer."

but then you go on to be that armchair mountaineer...

i'm pretty sure TC would still be up there, even if there weren't film crews, etc....

"...the last thing I want to do is criticize. BUT..."

Have you ever heard that when people use the word "But", that you can pretty much disregard everything they said preceding it?

what nobody is saying about this article is that you talk out of both sides of your mouth. It appears what you really want to say is in BOLD, and the rest is an attempt to sandwich the turd between two cookies.

I think their style is at least as good as pimping your blog on a forum. Especially creating a new thread for it when there is already a multipage discussion on it, including the style they are employing. And especially without making explicit that it is your own post you are calling interesting.

Though I see you are open to marketing inquiries and contributions to your blog, so maybe you are just bummed Kevin is posting on facebook instead?

Yep. There you have it. Tommy and Kevin, pampered thru hikers on the Yosemite Trail.

I could not think of a more unsuitable analogy if I tried.

Colonel Mustard wrote:Yep. There you have it. Tommy and Kevin, pampered thru hikers on the Yosemite Trail.

bwaaahhhaaaahhaaa, definitely some funny shit there. i think i am going to grab a bag of trail mix and a pancho and mosey up el cap....

MojoMonkey wrote:I think their style is at least as good as pimping your blog on a forum. Especially creating a new thread for it when there is already a multipage discussion on it, including the style they are employing. And especially without making explicit that it is your own post you are calling interesting. Though I see you are open to marketing inquiries and contributions to your blog, so maybe you are just bummed Kevin is posting on facebook instead?

Oh snap!

Chris Kalman wrote:So, interesting thought at the link below about the Dawn Wall. What do people out in MP land think about this? What Nobody is Saying About the Dawn Wall - Fringe's Folly

Glad Tommy and Kevin could afford you an opportunity to publicize your website.

Edited to add- damn it Mojo, you beat me to it!

the only thing I got out of the article was this line about belgians and bird vomit:

"...feels a lot more like a sport-climbing project, than a big wall adventure. Closer to Sharma pushing and pushing and finally sending Realization than to a bunch of Belgians romping their way up mossy big wall offwidths in the middle of the Arctic with seagulls puking in their faces."

literally laugh out loud funny