your top rope solo device
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so what is the best top rope soloing device. the mini traxion, wildcountry ropeman? looking for something i dont have to feed and will still be safe. |
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I use a gri-gri but you do have to pull out the slack on that. I think if I were to buy a dedicated device it'd be the mini-traxion, but that's mostly based off of what other people have said about it, and my own experience using a pro-traxion to haul. (very smooth and secure. |
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For TR soloing, the mini-trax is the standard, and for good reason. It works very well. Many people choose to use 2 devices for safety/redundancy; some simply use 2 mini-traxions. Another system I have seen that works well is a Croll held up with a chest harness, backed up with a mini-trax. Most of the rope soloing that I have done is with a mini-trax as the primary device, backed up with a Basic ascender below. I've used this system simply because these are the devices that I have, and it works pretty well. |
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I'm using a Basic Ascender backed up with a Grigri. It self-feeds. The Grigri needs slack pulled through when I'm at a stance. The Ascender was actually endorsed by Petzl to self-belay while the Mini-trax was not. That's why I chose it. The only complaint I have with the system is that the Basic Ascender won't allow you to traverse or down-climb well without disengaging it. |
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Doug S wrote:I'm using a Basic Ascender backed up with a Grigri. It self-feeds. The Grigri needs slack pulled through when I'm at a stance. The Ascender was actually endorsed by Petzl to self-belay while the Mini-trax was not.Where are you getting that information? This is what Petzl says about the Basic: "There is the possibility of accidental opening of the cam due to rubbing against the rock, or that the device will not jam due to an external object interfering with the cam (sling, shoelace, twig, etc.). Risk of improper attachment of the device." And this is what Petzl says about the Mini Traxion: "The jamming function can remain deactivated without the climber's knowledge and visual verification isn't always easy. There is the possibility that the device will not jam due to an external object interfering with the cam (sling, shoelace, twig, etc.)." Source That page doesn't say not to use the Mini Traxion or to use the Basic. It does say not to use a Shunt or Tibloc. I used to use a Gri Gri and now I use two Mini Traxions (one for backup). The Gri Gri was nice because you can lower really easily, but you have to manually take in the slack. The Mini Traxions are awesome because the rope feeds easily, but you can't lower really easily. I prefer using the Mini Traxions. |
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I found the link below on the Petzl website recently. They recommend using any one of a number of devices on the primary line (Ascension, Micro Traxion, Mini Traxion, or Basic) and a Microcender on the secondary/backup line. |
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I use a mini traxion and a cinch. Then you can just pop off the mini traxion and rap down. |
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Cinch and a prussic. |
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At the time of purchase (last fall roughly), Petzl listed self-belay as among the intended uses of the Basic Ascender. The Mini-trax was actually listed with a caution against self-belay. I don't have a frame of comparison as to which device actually works better for that purpose. I bought and use the Basic based solely on the manufacturer's specs at the time, which may have changed in the interim?? Dunno |
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the Shunt baby! |
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My device of choice is the Rock Exotica Soloist. |
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steitz wrote:the Shunt baby!I've used a shunt before and found that it's simply another way of saying you have a serious death wish. |
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I have a TR setup in my house on a training wall with two rope strands from the top anchor and a CAMP lift ascender on each, Also bungee-d up to chest harness so it self tends. A ladder is built into the wall so I can easily disengage both ascenders with one hand while using the other to climb down the ladder. Very efficient for doing lots of laps |
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I just use a Mini-trax with a prussik, If want to get real serious you can put a couple over-hands on some bights to completely fail-safe it.. I've seen guy's use a shunt backed up only by over-hands on bights... Not that thats the safest way to do it... |
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USHBA basic ascender with a prussik. It's totaly hands free, I don't need to mess with it or pull through slack while climbing. Cost was $80 I believe. I've used it for 3 years with no concern for my well being. I had fun climbing alone just yesterday. |
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Croll w sling or chest harness plus back up : ur choice of m tax, cinch, ushba. Plus anti cross load measures on ur locking biners |
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Jon O'Brien wrote:Croll w sling or chest harness plus back up : ur choice of m tax, cinch, ushba. Plus anti cross load measures on ur locking binersWow. Lots of stuff. Petzl Microsender. Locking biner. Done. |
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+1 for getting the best advice / instruction here. Petzl lays out your options clearly. |
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Doug S wrote:At the time of purchase (last fall roughly), Petzl listed self-belay as among the intended uses of the Basic Ascender. The Mini-trax was actually listed with a caution against self-belay.FWIW, the instructions that came with my minitrax years ago listed self belay as an approved use. The confusion about it currently being approved for such use comes from Petzl changing their mind recently about it. Unfortunately I misplaced my copy of the old instructions, so can't provide a pic. |
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Greg D wrote: Wow. Lots of stuff. Petzl Microsender. Locking biner. Done.ya im looking for something simple . how does this feed? |
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William Rhyne wrote: ya im looking for something simple . how does this feed?After 5 or 10 feet it tends itself. Tie a small weight to the rope and it will be totally hands free. No sharp teeth either. It was recommended by the manager at Bent Gate. Tie occassional back up knots of course. |