Amphib at Vail was retro fitted with chain draws (which had laid hidden under a rock near the base for over a month). The folks who did this had great intention but used poor equipment. All the gear looks to be 'Home Cheapo' chain and the weakest of 1/4" quicklinks. The chain looks like something made in china (with no certified test strength) and what visually appears to be the weakest link (800lb made-in-china) 1/4" quick links! After poking around on Petzl's fall simulator, it seems like a leader fall on this set-up could easily fail (generating a potential force equal to 1,100 lbs!), most likely at the quicklink. Fixe specifically makes quicklinks, chain, ect. for climbing that is rated and certified. Second, the draws are too short in places where longer draws existed for ease of clipping and rope drag. My guess is that the route will be stripped and refitted with the original/new draws that had hung on the route. The chain draws will be tucked back in their hiding spot for the owner to retrieve.
SAL
·
Apr 3, 2008
·
broomdigiddy
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 790
Rob Griz wrote:Amphib at Vail was retro fitted with chain draws (which had laid hidden under a rock near the base for over a month). The folks who did this had great intention but used poor equipment. All the gear looks to be 'Home Cheapo' chain and the weakest of 1/4" quicklinks. The chain looks like something made in china (with no certified test strength) and what visually appears to be the weakest link (800lb made-in-china) 1/4" quick links! After poking around on Petzl's fall simulator, it seems like a leader fall on this set-up could easily fail (generating a potential force equal to 1,100 lbs!), most likely at the quicklink. Fixe specifically makes quicklinks, chain, ect. for climbing that is rated and certified. Second, the draws are too short in places where longer draws existed for ease of clipping and rope drag. My guess is that the route will be stripped and refitted with the original/new draws that had hung on the route. The chain draws will be tucked back in their hiding spot for the owner to retrieve.
Must have been done somewhat recent huh? I have not been up since feb. I did not see too much wrong with the existing draws when I was on it. I wonder why they chose to swap it out. If you need some hardware to replace that cheap crap let me know. Thanks for the update