Climbing Near Woodsville, New Hampshire

South facing granite extrusion with horizontal cracked ledges. Many 150ft sections to climb along the rock bands of mostly white Quartzite like rock that are separated by narrow wooded gullies. Very steep, clean, solid, most climbs are very protective and very easily climbed (the hardest being about 5.6). Deceiving because from the ground they look challenging. Can be seen from route 25 in East Haverhill in the far away distance north is the distinctive ridge line. Also lower in this area west is a long slab on Black Mountain that I have heard has been climbed but I haven't and don't know how besides climbing Black Mountain trail and descending from it's summit to get there. Not much to climb on Black Mountain summit ledges. Four of us did top rope some short climbs there in 1981. I am not going to list all the climbs that I did on Hogsback. There were about a bakers dozen or more. I'll just say that I went up every rock band originally as free solos. The central section does have some short finger cracks for the start but after the cracks are slabs to climb that are a bit problematic because of accumulation of pine needles. Jim Shimberg joined me once for a day of doing the climbs that I thought were the best in 1987. Great view in all directions from the ridges top. Note- See Sept 2010 comment by Chuck Woodman for what certainly seems like an easier approach; just watch out for the fact Chuck’s map might be interpreted as having the approach ending ( the little climber ikon) on the north ( fire road 190) side of the ridge while the climbs are actually on the south side ( “Rt 25 side”)  R Hall, Admin, NH Bradley’s original approach….Take Lime Kiln Road to the right turn onto Page Road until you can turn left onto Blueberry Mt. Road and park where you can legally park. Hike north east at least four miles hoping you don't miss it. Best done when there are no leaves on the trees. I went in the late fall. Should pass by a junk yard of dozens of model T fords. Hardwood forest and many rolling hills. It's a bitch or epic to get to it. Good luck.

work in progress - areas in Oliverian Notch region, on the western edge of the White Mountains From Concord head north on I-93 and take exit 26 onto Rt 25 (Tenney Mtn Hwy) west like you were going to Rumney. Stay on 25 past Rumney and the towns of Wentworth and Warren (the town with the missile). From there see the individual area directions. Owls Head will be the obvious big cliff on your right off Rt 25 once past Warren.

A great slab on the far left/west end of the cliff that sees some occasional ice in the winter. Prone to seepage in the spring and after wet spells. Easily viewed when traveling east from Pike at the pull off for the dam of the Oliverian pond. Only 3 pitches so far with a 4th in the works. So far I have been parking at the dam pull off and hiking over the dam to the far side of the pond. Go right. Follow a faint trail through the scrub and enter the forest, keep the pond close ( like a few meters away most of the time). Here’s where things get Vermonty: cross a little Brook that looks prone to large wash outs, continue to stay close to the water, at the white birch that has two forks shooting up from a trunk parallel to the ground you are almost ready to head back into the woods. Shortly after that birch you’ll see another wet/marsh patch that has a rather large dead old oak fallen in it, that has been my marker to head up towards the cliff, on that trees far side. You’ll cross a few logging roads and eventually see ( in season) the land rise towards the cliff. If you go too far you will end up Boulder hopping your way up, and if you nail it you’ll hit a faint trail that goes up along and deposits you on the left end of the slab. Total hiking time is 45 minutes to an hour. IT MIGHT BE FASTER TO WALK IN FROM THE EAST AND SKIRT THE CLIFF BASE, THEN CLIMB STEEPLY UP TO THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE APRON. I haven’t tried this yet…the west way is rambly but pleasant, and less prone to the tick fest and soggy dew pants.