Climbing Near Weston, Connecticut

Devils Den area in Weston, CT and Devils Glen are both quiet and superb climbing locations. Devils Glen is a deep water soloing location with one established route that has seen a recent first ascent. Devils Dander (5.11 v4/5) is a 25-30 foot highball boulder problem that is beautifully set at a cliff jumping spot, popular to local teens. The route is easily top roped, but much more fun to solo. Its a scenic area with great views and accessibility right on the roadside, but its not legal to be there because the town doesn't want people jumping of the rocks. I projected this climb as a novice climber for a year, sending it this Summer after a friend revealed some productive beta. The route has an excellent ledge just above water level to gear up; it is an overhanging face climb with some moves that utilize the arete feature (but be careful because too far left or right of the distinguished line and the fall gets sketchy); the problem becomes increasingly difficult as you progress, starting at about 5.9 on the lower moves with crux moves that are easily 5.11a/b, possibly greater. Falls are safe on this line because of the direct line that overhangs right over the designated jumping water hole. The route also goes as an eliminate, without using the crucial arete crimp on the right face the sequence requires an athletic dyno to a side pull, letter grade harder maybe? Both variations have seen multiple ascents but only by me and my climbing partner who projected the route. I'd love to see a repeat and get some feedback from an alternative source to confirm my grading and enjoy the amazing feeling of a safe free solo in such an aesthetic location. Its my own king line and I'm trying to get it some exposure. Check out the photos to get you riled up.. Please contact me if you're thinking about climbing there, I know my way around the area quite well. Or just type in Devils Dander on Youtube for some footage of the first and second ascents. Exit 44 off the Merritt (Rt. 15), head towards Reservoir, away from Fairfield towards Weston on 58. Take left at first intersection after passing the Reservoir on your right. Take a right at the stop sign. Follow that road until it ends at a stop sign, turn right onto Valley Forge Road. Its a quarter mile down the road on the left. There is usually a large construction truck parked across the street blocking a hilly driveway from being parked in. There is NO LEGAL PARKING.

This is the East-facing crag located just South of the Resevoir (which is South-East of the town of Redding) by Newtown Turnpike. This is a wooded crag with routes in the 30-60ft length right near the road. The rock is good quality but does not see very much traffic and can be slightly dirty in some areas. This area suffers from a poor selection of options for anchors at the top. Ideally someone would put in some bolts. The vegetation (small mountain laurel trees and shrubs) is sketchy at best for TR anchors and getting good gear is not easy. Until bolts are installed your best bet for setting up a toprope is lots of webbing or static line...like 40ft or so. From route 15/Merritt Parkway take the Westport/Weston exit and go North on Weston Road. This becomes Newtown Turnpike - follow this towards Redding. The crag will be on your left - look for it and park at one of the parking areas just before the reservoir.

The Roadside crag had two big features - the Big Wall and a smaller but still big feature to the climbers right of this. This feature - the Big Wall - has routes in the 30-60ft range on good quality (but sometimes dirty rock). This is the biggest rock face at this location. From parking on the road walk into the woods on the West side of the road for about 150 yards.