Climbing Near Tyngsboro, Massachusetts

This is an old quarry. The tallest face is about 14 feet, slightly overhanging (although the photo makes it look slabby). It's shady with a steep base that would make crash pads impractical. I haven't climbed it yet and don't know if anyone else has. It doesn't look like something you'd travel for, but it might something for locals to try. It's 1/4 mile south of the Tyngsboro Bridge on Middlesex Rd. It's the first hill after some stores on the right. There's a dirt parking area just before the bend in the road that's right at the base of the hill.

Lowell-Dracut-Tyngsboro State Forest or LDT is mostly a hiking and mountain biking destination situated between Lowell, Dracut, and Tyngsboro. The boulders here are somewhat spread out but are mostly located around the rock playground closest to the Trotting Park Road entrance on the south side of the Forest. There are about 5 or so boulders with worthwhile climbing that I have found and some potential for others and new routes. Not being on the climbing radar, many of the boulders are frequently used for campfire backstops and collect glass and other sharps. Plan to do some stewardship, and pack out some trash if you visit. Despite the fire and trash scene, the boulders here are worth a visit. Also of note, this area can be great for little kids to climb as there are many smaller "kid boulders" and a few geocaches. Enjoy! Park at the Trotting Park Road trailhead on the south side of the forest. Walk the wide trail/dirt fire road on the east side of the parking lot (there may be more than one, that's ok, they will both get there...) until you get to a large rocky area with many trails and small boulders. Climb to the top of this area, and walk straight back (some bushwhacking) to get to the Warm-up Boulder. If you walk right from the top on the rightmost trail continuing right, you will get to the Triangle Boulder. If you take the fire road to the right from this area, you will get to sheep rock. The Totman Boulder is best accessed from Totman Road on the northeast side of the forest. Expect to do some hunting around the first time or two. Scouting by mountain bike can also be enjoyable.

Saw these boulders in the winter and finally checked them out. Anyone climbed these before? Putting me and my friend as the FA's for now. Barely needed any scrubbing! There's one real good boulder with quality rock and 5 or 6 routes; one descent boulder with alright quality rock with (at least one) great problem. Potential on a few other boulders, a P'way Balance Boulder look alike with a mushroom looking traverse on top, not sure of the quality, would have tried it with a spotter to move the pad, if anyone's up for it let me know! Another potential but has a tree in front of the problem. Worth stopping by if your in the area. Take Mammoth Rd. (it's in a lot of towns) towards Pelham, right before you get to Dracut MA (from the north) take Sherburne Rd. on the right, again, from the north. About 200-300 yards on the right is a gate with a green and white sign that reads Tree Farm. Park in front of this gate. Try to go slow, even though the chance of a local riding your rear is pretty good, people go fast on this road. It's kind of hard to see since it's behind some shrubs till your right next to it. Walk into the "woods", you'll see when you get there.