Climbing Near Segundo Barrio de Dolores, Querétaro

There are almost never other climbers here, but if there is, then it's a lot of climbers, like 5-10, rappel and sport climbing outings and clinics held here, but not very often. There is a small bouldering cove right before you get to the actual crag, its very orange in color and the locals of the town that the crag overlooks (El Marques) sometimes have barbeques in the bouldering spot. All the boulder holds are marked with chalk, the wall is probably 4.5 meters max in height. DO NOT come here just for bouldering, this place is so old and has seen so many climbers that all te holds are covered in a greasy glossy feel, there is almost no friction, it's real rock but it feels exactly like resin rocks, like the fake rocks at amusement parks. There are probably about 10 boulders from V2-V7, but they are by no means "classics" and are very confusing. The easier routes on the main crag also have that fake rock feel, but the two hardest ones still have grip/friction on their holds. The seating can be tricky, especially if there are more than 5 people. There are ants and animal droppings in some spots. The good thing is that there is shade there all day long. The routes range from 5.7-5.11d or 5.12a, or 4+-7c+ for all you weirdoes out there. Some of the routes are potentially dangerous if you fall, but the bolts are very close together so I guess you could say it's well protected. There are several big rocks at the base with bolts in them, do not be put off by this, people simply practice putting in bolts on those rocks. The two easiest routes are very obvious, they are in between two dihedrals, so they are basically in the corner. The two hardest routes are also very obvious as they are the tallest, blankest, and slightly overhanging. Park in the obvious parking lot, there is a single tree right next to the trail up to the crag for shade. Follow the clay-colored trail up the hill and about halfway up, there is a small bouldering half-cave to the left. Continue up the trail and past the satellite compound. There is going to be a fork in the path, the left one goes up to the top of the crag where you can find 3 very spaced glue in bolts for rappelling, and the right path goes down around the main rock and leads to the crag.

** IN PROGRESS *** Querétaro is a state in central Mexico and its capital (Querétaro City) is located about 130 mi from Mexico City (about a 3h drive or bus ride on a toll highway). There is frequent bus service from Mexico City (both from the airport and other bus stations in the city) to Querétaro City and daily flights to the Querétaro Airport from Dallas and Houston. Flying to Querétaro is generally more expensive than flying to Mexico City, but the airport is located 20 mi SW of Peña de Bernal (about a 30 min drive) and 20 mi east of downtown Querétaro.

This area is kind of left center of all the climbing. There is also a large prominent block on the far left side of this sector that is visible from below. Stays shady all morning until early afternoon and even then shade can be found on some routes. Has a great range of routes from easy 10 to 12d several good ones in the 5.11 range. 15 min approach. There are a lot of roads to drive up and it can be a little confusing as to which one is best but the cliffs are clearly visible so just drive towards it and don't park in front or in someones driveway. Hike along the creek until you find one of several trails heading to the section of climbing you want to do. It's pretty straight forward just respect peoples fields and animals.