Climbing Near Santa Fe, New Mexico

Santa Fe, a major tourist destination, the oldest capital city in the US, offers a wealth of cultural and outdoor experiences, and a wide variety of year-round climbing.The nearest areas are:Rats Peak- conglomerate sport, toprope and boldering* Diablo Canyon - basalt sport and trad* Cochiti Mesa - once-famous pocket sport climbing* The Pecos - granite sport craggingOther areas with 1 hour include:* El Rito - cobble-y sport and easy 2-pitch trad* Taos - various types, sport & trad* White Rock - basalt sport and trad* Palomas Peak - limestone sport* The Sandias - mostly multipitch tradSeek out the sunny cliffs of areas like Diablo and Cochiti in the colder months; in the summer, head to the shaded valley of the Pecos or the shady cliffs at Diablo and Eagle Canyon.Camping The areas near most of the crags (Diablo, Cochiti) provide low-key opportunities for dirtbagging on public land. Be aware that the Pecos River Canyon has seen a lot of impact from camping. Lodging at various levels of luxury can be had in Santa Fe.Climbing Gym The Santa Fe Climbing Center (SFCC) offers indoor climbing for the evenings and the cold,snowy days in the winter. The SFCC has a very friendly and knowledgeable staff and also offers outdoor guiding at local areas.Gear The Santa Fe Climbing Center offers an ever-expanding selection of climbing gear including Black Diamond, Petzl and La Sportiva. The Santa Fe REI also has a decent selection of climbing gear. - Truchas Peaks: The Truchas Peaks area of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in Northern New Mexico offers a high abundance of quality, secluded hiking and mountain adventure. - Diablo Canyon: Single to multi-pitch, sport and trad, less than vertical to overhanging. A nice variety of climbing on excellent to poor quality basalt. - Capulin Canyon and Cochiti Mesa Area Crags: Think vertical pockets and monos. Technical climbing away from the crowds on a former destination sport climbing area. - Pecos River Canyon: Picturesque granite crag northeast of Santa Fe, NM. - Apache Canyon (a.k.a. Grasshopper Canyon) Bouldering: A large overhanging chunk of sandstone with at least 20 different variations. Just 20 minutes outside of Santa Fe. Head north of Albuquerque on I-25, you can't miss Santa Fe, the Capital of New Mexico!

The crag on Sierra Pelado Is often visible from I-25 on the southernmost extent of the ridge.  It is also visible on the skyline to the Northeast from a break in the trees 2/3 the way up La Barbaria Trail. The crag is granitic.   As you drive northward on I-25 from Albuquerque take the Old Pecos Trail exit on the East side of Santa Fe.  This is the third Santa Fe exit.  Turn left and cross the Interstate and immediately turn right on Old Las Vegas Highway, which is a frontage road to the freeway.  Continue for one mile then turn left on El Gancho Way. Turn right at the end of that road onto Old Santa Fe Trail.  In 1 1/4 miles turn left onto La Barbaria  Road. In 2 miles go left onto La Barbaria Trail.  Go about 3/4 miles to an area for fire crew parking a few hundred feet before a locked gate with metal cutouts of blue cowboy boots. Walk out ENE at right angles to the road for a short ways and you will find a minor trail.  Go left on the trail that ascends to the crag on Sierra Pelado.  The hike will take you about an hour.

Partly shaded climbs on solid felsic gneiss ortho-conglomerate. The crag is about 50' tall and most climbs are around 45' long. You can walk around the backside to setup top-ropes from the top.  For over two decades, the named routes here were TR-only. In May 2024, Jim Olsen collaborated with the Santa Fe County Open Space division to agree to allow the routes to be equipped for leading. Except for two top-rope routes, all routes, including three new routes, are now fully bolted for lead climbing. The three new routes are "Rat Proof" (5.11b) between "Rat Arete" and "Rat Race", Squrmin' Vermin and the three-bolt "Biggie Cheese" 5.6 on the far right of the Rugrats Ridge. There is a lower ridge called Rugrats Ridge extending south from the east side of the crag. If you have a little trad gear you can setup short kid beginners 5.1 - 5.3 climbs here. These are the closest climbs to downtown Santa Fe. Starting at the plaza in Santa Fe, head north on Washington Avenue. As you pass the large pink Scottish Rite Temple on the left, Washington Avenue becomes Bishops Lodge Road. From Bishops Lodge Road turn right on Artist Road, which soon becomes Hyde Park Road. In about four miles you will pass 10,000 waves, a large spa on your left and shortly top the hill you have been climbing. After you start to descend you will drive through a sharp bend in the road called Nun's Corner and descend to an inconspicuous bridge across Tesuque Creek. Park on the right, just past the bridge. Walk across the road and follow the path to the left. After about 600' you arrive at Rats Peak.