Climbing Near Prestonsburg, Kentucky

Stonecrest is a sandstone outcrop at the top of a ridge above Prestonsburg, KY. The cliffband averages about 30 feet high, and topropes can be set up for most of the 10 or so climbs. Along with the routes, there are a handful of high quality boulder problems as well. The rock is similar to that found in most areas of KY. Don Fields, a local fitness guru, was among the first people to climb there. In the fall of 2005 he pointed it out to me. The climbs range in difficulty from 5.5 to 5.10 with a few more difficult lines still unclimbed. There is more exploring to be done here for sure. A note on access: while teens come and camp here frequently, climbers are urged to keep a low profile. Be courteous to the golfers if you see any and, as with any area, pack out litter if you find it. From Prestonsburg, go south on US highway 23 until you reach the exit for KY 80. Take a left at the top of the exit ramp onto KY 302/Water Gap Rd. Continue towards Jenny Wiley State Park. You will drive along Dewey Lake and eventually reach a T. Take a left on Maggie Mt. Rd up towards Stonecrest Golf Course. Again, you reach a T, take a left, and, after the horse stables, take a right up a windy road (Crestwood Dr). Park in a left turn-off by a fenced maintenance building. Walk up the hill onto the golf course. Keep walking south to a small knoll. When you get to its top you will find a trail leading down to the top of the main outcrop. The approach takes 5-10 minutes.

Secluded bouldering rock located on top of a hill. The rock is around 20ft tall. Access to the boulder requires a 0.5-1 mile hike.

This is the main area consisting of a terraced ridge-top sandstone crag. Most of the routes are on the south face, but there are a few opportunities on the north side around the point. The quickest way to access these routes are from the road directly below the pin drop.