Climbing Near Portland, Maine

In the off days of spotting German U-Boats I'm sure the soldiers of the WW2 era had plenty of time to do some bouldering of their own. This park encompasses some of Maine's rugged coastline with picturesque views of Portland Headlight and Portland. The bouldering here, like any spot on the Maine coast, is a plethora of opportunites to set new routes or climb old ones. There's a few bolted lines here spotted around the parking lot cliffs just to the side of the lighthouse and the main parking lot. Kind of run out and spotty anchoring, you may need to rap to investigate the quality of the bolts prior to hanging on them. This is right on the ocean so keep in mind the tides and make sure your belayer has a good anchor as well so no one goes for a swim :) Just google Fort Williams in Cape Elizabeth Maine.. 5 minute walk from the parking lots.

Bouldering , Trad , Drytooling/mixedBroken pillars , detached flakes , eroded sea side caves and fins .Standard Casco Bay rack BE MINDFUL OF THE TIDES Launch from Portland Maine or two lights state park in south Portland . Kayak in one push or stop and spend the night on one of the beaches you pass . once you approach depending on your craft, choose the appropriate place to anchor and swim in with dry bags or drag kayaks to a anchor located on a mid point ledge 12 feet up usually with marked by a cluster or orange fixed pitons. ( please do not access the cliff from the islands landing or wood line due to private land . Water approach is a must unless being guided. ) 

Greater Portland: Surrounding environs including Casco Bay The hub of a large part of Maine's population, and containing it's most populous, diverse, and vibrant city. Portland is a teeming metropolis with plenty of food, culture, and history. Situated at the south east corner of one of Maine's most scenic bodies of water, Casco Bay, which teems with boats in the summer, Portland is a great spot to spend some rest time, and the easiest place to connect with other climbers. Two modern climbing gyms serve the population, and the city is a great jumping off point for experiencing the culture of coastal Maine. Portland is a short two hour drive from Boston. No significant rock of note is around the city, though there are a few local spots, Portland will be a town worth visiting on a drive to the better climbing elsewhere in the state. Portland International Jetport connects to most major airports on the east coast. There is also train service from Boston and points further east on the Downeaster, and bus service in the form of Grayhound and the locally preferred Concord Coach Lines.