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Featured Trad, Sport, Bouldering, and other popular climbing routes and climbing areas Peoria, Illinois.
Old bridge pillar of some sorts that features some decent but short and easy lines. There is potential for some development, and even a couple of dynos. Area is subject to river flooding, and some times it can get a little muddy around the pillar, but it’s usually not bad. Top outs are easy. The best down climb is on the North side, use the slopey part of the pillar to get your footing and then drop down. Bring bug spray. There is a parking lot at the end of Lorentz Avenue off of N Galena Rd. Walk past the electrical tower and towards the river. There is usually a trail that is pretty well-cleared. Once you get past the tower it is impossible to miss the concrete pillar.
As of October 2018, Rocky Glen has officially become a park open to the public. A nice parking lot and new entrance to Rocky Glen has been added to Kickapoo Creek Road. Peoria Park District has recently posted a trail map at the entrance, along with a new trail, that is well marked, and leads to the spray painted sandstone formations. At the opposite end of the small creek that flows through the Glen is an abandoned coal mine entrance that is welded shut. Peoria Park Destrict has added a new parking lot on Kickapoo Creek Road. The parking lot has a trail map posted at the entrance. Follow the trail markers until you reach the small creek at the bottom of a ravine, head right (north) to find the sand stone formations, head left to find the abandoned coal mine.
A solid area with a couple nice easy climbs. Area shows potential for expansion. There are a lot of chossy overhangs so please be careful. Just like the rest of the park, 95% of the rock is unstable. Fortunately, with some common sense and determination, solid routes can be found.I am not 100% sure what the legal access status of this section of woods is, but many locals use the trails and say the landowner keeps this area open to the public.Discovered on a 57 degree Christmas eve. From the east entrance, travel along the river until you come to a fence and a runoff waterfall that smells... great. on the right there is a gate where a grass drive starts. follow the drive about halfway between the start of the drive and the clearing with the mansion. Christmas area is on your left. The Red Rocket feature and the large Green boulder should stand out.You can enter from the west, although you have to use a private road. Locals use this road for ATV's and dirt bikes and say the road owner does not mind as long as you are respectful and do not disturb the residence. You can park at the end of the grass drive by the fence.
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