Climbing Near Peoria, Arizona

A grouping of granite boulders with 40 plus route's tallest being 65 feet There are 3 main Boulder clusters with summits Looking south from the 303 Left to Right would be:The South East Summit which Marty’s Map Call “The Middle Boulders”(north of Grafitti Boulder) Also home to “The Watch Tower” as Jason calls it or the “Big Standing Boulder” as Marty Calls it which has Marty’s #24 open X rated Project The entrance gate is located at 33.770139,-112.173617. There are giant power lines that parallel the road just west of the multibillion dollar microchip plant across the road. To the east of the start of the giant poles there is a dirt road that heads due south. This passes through the entrance gate which has some random stickers including a few climbing stickers. The entrance gate is just off of the 303 going eastbound before i-17, after taking the exit for 51st Ave. It does not keep going into 51st Ave where you see road closure signs. ATVs sometimes are parked just beyond the gate, it's on the south side of the fenced State Trust Land area.Go through and CLOSE the gate. Immediately turn right and closely follow the poles west till there is a fork in the road (3ish poles from the end). Take the left fork though a small and very bumpy  wash. Most cars will make it and the road eases up and meanders though creosote bushes and cholla. There is a small hill to the south with ATV tails much like the road you are traveling on all around and up it.Stay on the main trail as it winds it’s way southwest to the Boulder piles in the distance. This is Ice Castles.  There are a lot of trails you can take to get there but the main trail out there will not deviate from line of sight by much. There are side roads that are easier but caveat emptor. Park wherever you feel the need. Roads do get rocky and washes can get washed out. Any high clearance vehicle will have no problem Subaru’s have no issues just desert pin stripes.The walk in is less than 15 min if you park when you start to get nervous so better safe than sorry, otherwise an SUV should get you to the crag. Expect 20-30 minutes driving on the dirt road from the gate. It’s not that far but you are driving slow. ~3 miles.

Four large boulder sit closely together with many problems all over them. Featured but sharp Granite awaits. There are some very cool and solid lines here as well as some long traverses. The falls aren't the best but they could be worse. Just bring a couple pads and a spotter with you. Hike NW using the trails to get to the Beer Bong Boulders. Continue on the main trail past the areas to your right towards the low saddle. Hike up the mountain bike trail to a clearing on the right. The boulders will be right in front of you. The large warmup slab has "Joel" tagged on it.

New routes were set so there can be flakes. make sure you have a helmet when belaying. more of a local spot. while hiking over make sure you watch out for bikers on trails and keep out of there way. also watch out for owl nest and bee hive near the top. Once you park walk across the canal and through the fence and hop over the barrier then hike north. there is a taller peak that is thin at the top and looks like a bunch of boulders stacked, you want to get to there and the routes will be on the west side of the peak.