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Featured Trad, Sport, Bouldering, and other popular climbing routes and climbing areas Pahrump, Nevada.
This is one of the premier climbing destinations in the US, if hard (and often manufactured) limestone routes are what you're seeking. The beautiful surroundings, overhanging caves, and cooler temperatures make Mt. Charleston a welcomed escape from the desert heat of Las Vegas during the summer months. Mt. Charleston is most well-known for having chipped routes and its hard pocketed testpieces such as Jason Campbell's Soul Train: 5.14a, Chris Sharma's Hasta La Vista: 5.14b/c, and Dan McQuade's Infectious Groove: 5.13b. Other climbers of note who contributed to the excellent climbing up on the mountaintop include Tony Yaniro, Randy Marsh, Leo Henson, Terry Parish, Rob Mulligan, Joe Brooks, Francois LeGrand, Doug Englekirk, etc. Mt. Charleston also sports numerous other quality lines ranging from 5.10 and up, so if you are in Vegas and looking to avoid the scorching sun and overcrowding of Red Rocks, head 45 minutes north to this pine tree oasis.Much of this area is in the Mount Charleston Wilderness Area. See the BLM Fact Sheet for a good overview of what it protects and what that limits, and the Forest Service page for other information. One important distinction for route developers is that it's illegal to use power drills in a wilderness area, and bad ethics to operate one within earshot of one. As always, check with and respect the local climbing community on what goes where before doing such things.Mount Charleston is located on the ancestral lands of Southern Paiute, also known as the Nuwuvi. The Southern Paiute name for Mt. Charleston is Nuvagantu, or "where the snow sits". Nuvagantu is commonly recognized by the Southern Paiute (or Nuwuvi) as the place where they were created as a people and is considered by them to be a holy land. (Source - DOI: 10.2307/1185646). The Mount Charleston area is located forty minutes west of Las Vegas in the Toiyabe National Forest. Take Hwy 95 north out of Vegas. Shortly after the houses stop, you will see a sign directing you to turn left for Kyle Canyon Road (Nevada State Route 157). Head up this road for several miles until you reach the area you're looking for. Most of the climbing is past the turnoff for Lee Canyon via Deer Creek Road (State Route 158).
The ice in the bowl above Big Falls is not very big, but forms up before anything else on the mountain. Approach as per Big Falls. Climb the goat trail to the left of the falls, gaining the large bowl above.
Smaller wall that lies in the wash and is home of 4 moderate sport routes. Is mostly shaded past noon. The wall is sharp grey limestone. The routes from left to right: Lost and Found - 5.9+ Where's my Dog - 5.8 Nighttime Shenanigans - 5.8 Just the Tip - 5.10b This cliff lies up wash from Yellow Pine Wall. It lies directly in the wash and is about 2 min from Yellow Pine Wall. Follow the trail from the Mary Jane Falls parking lot and cut across into the wash. Follow the wash until the wall is reached on the left hand side of the wash. 15 min approach.
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