Climbing Near Pagosa Springs, Colorado

This North-facing crag is composed of good black basalt. Unlike the other basalt crags in the East Fork Canyon, this crag is mostly less than vertical. While most of the crags on the south side of the river are covered in moss, this one is relatively clean. Being just above the river, the rock shows a lot of water polish. Another unusual aspect is the presence of small (like 1/4" cubes) holds that are crisscrossed with fracture lines on some routes. Given the choice of 3 moves of .8 on small holds or one move of 10a high step, I would do the 10a every time. The routes are rated for this harder but safer style of leading. This isn't to say that there are no small holds used. Like all this East Fork basalt, the routes are all sequential mazes, generally heavily bolted with solid looking but fractured holds avoided. Since all these routes are mine, I know the sequence before I do the free lead. This makes rating the route difficult, because routes are rated for the ground up, onsight leader. So, I guess I'm saying that all my ratings are suspect. The crag is best climbed in July to October during a dry season. Most of the bolts are 4" or 3" stainless steel with ss hangers. There are some 5" galvanized with plated steel hangers . All are 3/8" .  Drive up the East Fork (San Juan River) road to the cattleguard beneath the New Dark Ages Crag. The road is usually open May to November. Park at the cattleguard, and look across the river to Wild River Crag just 100' above the river. Wade the river only in low water conditions. In May and June, it is a raging torrent. I have crossed at 125 cfs (at Pagosa Springs gauge), and it is waist deep and sketchy. Late summer and early fall of 2021 was very dry, and the river crossing was easy at 60 cfs.

This is a bouldering area at the base of Wolf Creek Pass in the West Fork drainage. It is not a destination spot but is good and easy to get to if you're driving by. There is lots of free camping along the river. The explorer will find more rock up in the trees. Traffic is minimal, so you won't find a lot of chalk. Most of these problems can be done in various ways making grading and quality hard to define. Your tips will know you climbed here. Sorted problems are all found along the road. Unsorted are found on Riverside Bloc. See Water Music to find Riverside Bloc. Find this area at the west base of Wolf Creek Pass by following West Fork Road towards the Rainbow Hot Springs trailhead. Winter conditions cause road to be closed. 4wd or Awd needed. 

The Middle Fork Needles (Piedra River) are most visible while driving up to Williams Creek Reservoir. They appear high on the ridge to the right (east) and appear to be a collection of volcanic ridges, spires, and one super thin needle of almost impossible height. These needles are also visible while driving Piedra Road toward the Piedra Gorge climbing areas. Drive up the Middle Fork Road (closed between December and April - check with the Forest Service), and turn left on the Palisade Road. Go 2.1 miles up the Palisade Road (gravel 2 wheel drive), and park. Notice an unusually steep, dirt slope with old trees on the left side of the road. This is an old dam that retains a small lake. Below the dam, follow an obvious cow path that cuts left into the forest. Switchback up right to the lake, then follow an old logging road due south for 15 minutes. The road (straight and flat) then turns hard right. To the west, a rocky ridge with saddle is visible. The crag with 3 summits, just right of the saddle, is Tilted Tower. You will be heading for this saddle. After the road turns hard right, it soon becomes a trail that drops down toward a meadow. As soon as trail starts down, go right on a faint track, and contour around left to the top of the meadow below the saddle. Go left from the top of the meadow into trees, and find a steep game trail that diagonals up and right to the saddle and Tilted Tower about 30 minutes from Palisade Rd.