Climbing Near North Andover, Massachusetts

This is a nice, little area in Lawrence, which is nearly to the New Hampshire line (I thought it was in Andover), with short routes of low end difficulty. The park is 80 acres and belongs to the city. The rock is fairly rough with buckets galore. Consider long slings and a sturdy rope for climbing here. Glue in anchors for most routes and you can walk up to the top. Some will just boulder here. Something was written about supposedly rock to 100 feet here. Addendum: I never found anything bigger than 30 feet.The crags from North to South are First Impressions, Desperado, Inner Walls, Building Blocks, Petroleum Based Buttress, FK Face, City Dump, City Park, Remnants. Above City Park is a small boulder.Apparently, below The Building Blocks area is a new bouldering area. To get there from Boston, go North on I-93, go East on I-495 to exit 100A. Go South on Hwy 114 for 0.4 mi. Paaark on the West side. Go South away from the North Andover shopping mall. Take a left (East) and follow a dirt road. The first crag you'll reach is First Impressions.

This is a 20 foot crag and it faces north. There were a couple anchors with chains above.L->R:A. Mutual Exclusion, 6, 1p, 25', TR.B. Matt's Route, 12, 1p, 20', TR.C. Cut Rate, 8, 1p, 20', TR.D. Chimney, 4. This is the first crag you encounter from the parking area. It is the northernmost crag here.

This is a 30 foot crag that faces north. It has a nice chimney climb. Gear is useful for anchors. There are some bolt anchors as well, now.L->R:A. Scylla & Charybdis, 9+.B1. Crystal Ship/Shop, 7+, 1p, 30', TR or gear.B2. Acme Krak Climbing Kit, 4.C. Footloose Man, 6.D. Rock & Scissors, 3 (inside chimney).E. Finger Ripping Good, 10 (S face).F. Ball Buster, 11. This is the 3rd crag you encounter from the parking area. This is the 3rd most northernmost crag you encounter here.