Climbing Near Newbury, New Hampshire

The Newbury Cut was originally created in 1872 as a path for a train running through the Lake Sunapee area. The routes are bolted safely and nestled in the actual railroad cut, often parallel to each other. All the routes on these cliffs can be accessed from the top, and provided you have enough webbing you will be able to safely top rope everything in the Cut. Moss and small pebbles of loose rock can be a problem here primarily due to the fact that this location has previously been rarely climbed at, though it seems to be gaining some attention recently. Due to the way the cut was created (blasted with black powder) many of the routes here are very strange feeling in terms of the way they climb and the direction of the holds. The Newbury Cut is best defined by it's blocky and directionally dependent holds that often require subtle body tension to get just right. Better said, it's pretty funky. The Cut has some excellent and definitely testy routes in the 5.10 range. Do not expect to be able to climb well here your first time through. Due to the aspect, water table, and seasons you will find yourself mostly unable to enjoy climbing the routes on the left side of the Cut from April until it becomes drier in late August. One word of warning: if you can not look (and climb) past contrivances on the bolted lines there are several routes that will feel too easy for the grade, and also very unsatisfying. To reach the bolted lines, park as for the directions of "The Newbury Cut" and walk down a path on the left into the Cut.

There are several decent sized boulders here that are deserving of a scrub and ascents - as well as one large face with a set of bolted anchors on the top (they're questionable and it is probably better to use pads). In the future I intend to update this information, and add photos and routes. Currently it appears as though no one has touched this rock in a time, although the bolted anchors indicate that there have been past ascents. Upon reaching the bottom of the short trail to the cut, instead of turning right towards the cliffs, take a quick left and then right down a clear path by a telephone pole. Walk straight into the woods for less than 75 feet past a wetland. You will see the boulder/boulders on your right. The highest boulder has an older and seemingly manky bolt anchor drilled into the top.

Newbury Cutts was originally a route for a train running through Newbury. So the climbing offered is on two 50 foot walls with a straight track running through the middle. When you arrive, you will be parked at the top of the cliff, and should follow a footpath down to the gorge. The area is not usually sunny and often wet, but if you pick a good day, you can be rewarded with some of the most funky and fun 5.10s anywhere. The climbing offered is super closely bolted routes leading to well placed anchors or a walk around back to the bottom of the cliff. Because the cliff was blasted around a hundred years ago, the climbs are steep and quite blocky. Loose rock can still be found, but the area is decently solid. One or two easier routes are offered, but the majority of the climbing is in the 5.10 range. The routes are strange but can offer extremely creative and fun moves, with bolts every five or ten feet! Make sure you respect the area and your fellow climbers! This is a small local area with very limited parking. Do not try to park more cars than will naturally fit. Carpool or come back another time. Respect gets respect! Drive through Newbury NH along Route 103 South towards Bradford. After passing through the town of Newbury the speed limit will change from a 30 mph zone to a 50 mph zone. Pass the sign and as you come around the immediate left bend in the road, the parking area will be a dirt pull off right there on your right. Pull off the side of the road and pull up the hill as far as you safely can! Make sure you leave the road plenty of room, as well as leaving a spot for anyone else who wants to climb! There will be a footpath down to the bottom of the cliff on the right side of the cliff, or you could rappel down from the many anchors at the top! From user afemery: Replaced the missing anchor with a new one with a rap ring included. Placed 6 3/8" SS Quick Links at the anchors of 3 other climbs which only have hangers as anchors.There is a missing anchor at the top of Chris Hangar.  Two bolts have been drilled into the rock as on other routes, but only one of them has an anchor.  What's the best way to replace it?  Chris Hangar is a super fun climb.