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Featured Trad, Sport, Bouldering, and other popular climbing routes and climbing areas Mexico, Maine.
Very sunny and sheltered area that compliments the main wall very well. Found by Matt Barker in 2016 and man that dude has a great nose for rock! Used to be very woodsy around the swamp but heavy logging has changed the area significantly. About 10 bolted sport routes 5.9-5.12ish. Follow directions for main wall. Probably best to park and walk from here unless you have a high clearance vehicle.(A) If you park at the main wall head out to the road and walk right for about 5 min. You will reach the top of a hill and can see the crag in the far left distance and it appears as a rounded dome. Once you descend into the logging landing head right along an ATV trail that circles around the swamp. After about five minutes you will pass a small rock wall on the right. After this break right off the trail and head up an overgrown logging rd and up over a knoll and the crag will be down in a large hollow. Head up a small rise to the crag.(B) If you drive all the way to the clearing park out to the left. In dry years you can cross the swamp via a slash bridge but if not follow directions from the ATV trail.
Wonderfully described in A.J. Coolidge's 1859 A History and Description of New England ..."Tumble-down Dick, more commonly called Dick....is a small mountain, which, when viewed from a distance, resembles Mount Washington. On the north it rises gradually to its summit, and on its south it breaks off in an abrupt and frightful precipice, never scaled by man or beast", the 'Dick (not to be confused with Tumbledown Dick in Rumford or Tumbledown Mountain in Weld) is a large, rambling escarpment of schist rising over 500 feet at it's center. The cliff face is split in two by a diagonal 4th class ramp system that stretches from base to summit. Scattered tree ledges break up the cliff face into a confusing array of walls. There are also a handful of wonderful single pitch walls located below the base of the main cliff. Although there has been little development, old pitons and tat show evidence that technical climbing has been happening here for decades. The 'Dick is located in the tiny town of Peru just west of Worthley Pond. The approach includes two miles of somewhat rough dirt roads (high clearance but no 4-wheel drive required). From Portland, take 95 North to exit 63 (Gray). Take Route 26 West for 36 miles to Route 219. Take 219 North 8 miles to Greenwoods Road. Left on Greenwoods Road and follow it (with many turns) 4.5 miles to Pulcifer Road. Left on Pulcifer Road and get ready to hit the back woods! Pulcifer Road will take you uphill past a few houses to a fork in the road. Take the left fork and meander roughly 2 miles into the valley below the 'Dick. There are several forks in the road. Always choose the fork more traveled. Check out the posted map on this page. Park at the large clearing below the cliff face. A climber's trail with cairns takes you 10 minutes or so up the hill to the center of the cliff.
This is the wall left of the diagonal 4th class ramp system "The Slide" From the Main Cliff, follow the trail along the base past "The Slide".
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