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Featured Trad, Sport, Bouldering, and other popular climbing routes and climbing areas Magog, Quebec.
Located in the Parc du Mont Orford. Development began in the 90s, and has now become a place to push the limits of Quebec climbing. Most of the climbing is in the 5.9 to 5.13. there are a few 5.6 suitable for climbers still new to the sport, but are not as common as the harder routes. There is plenty of potential for this location to produce some future hard sport lines for this area. on the hike up to the climb there is also some nice bouldering before you hit the main wall. The gneiss the climbs are made of is solid, but can be rather sharp when dealing with crimps. The rock also can be rather wet in places so be sure to bring chalk when you go.when you arrive at the parking lot where there is a self serve parking/climbing permit with a small fee.SEPAQ website: http://www.sepaq.com/pq/mor/index.dot?language_id=1 Telephone: +1-819-843-9855 parc.mont-orford@sepaq.com Take exit 115 on highway 10 between Sherbrooke and Montreal. Instead of going for the Parc du Mont Orford park entrance, turn left and look for the parking entrance to your right.The hike is about 1.2 km or 30 mins long, and steep.
Cool section, often busy on weekends. It has a few routes in the 5.9-5.10 range, which makes for excellent warmups. The 5.9s are classic perfect to rig topropes and challenge beginners. There is also this huge roof, which may go one day, as one of the hardest routes around. Located at the end of the trail. On the left of where the trailhead reaches the cliff.
Orford's main wall. The routes here can be 2 pitches long, but still climbable as one pitch. This section is mainly face climbing, and has classics in the 5.10, 5.11 and 5.12 ranges. just to the right of the trailhead
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