Climbing Near Little Rock, Arkansas

This region contains all of the climbing south of the Arkansas River.  The rock fades from a savannah sandstone type texture to a more bullet, quartzite like texture the further you go south.  There are less crags in this region, however the well established areas have rightfully persisted!The two best areas in this region are Mount Magazine State Park and Dardanelle Rock.  Mount Mag' is an old school climbing area relative to other AR crags, unsurprising as it was one of the first climbing areas in Arkansas.  It hosts some of the first trad and sport lines put up in the state, and has begun to see more recent development for an all around great crag with a variety of styles and grades.  The rock tends to be harder with less friction than other zones in the state, and the climbing tends to flow a bit differently here than the more thuggy areas - people who like western climbing tend to adjust to this unique AR crag more easily than those who've spent more time in areas like Rock Creek, Hudson, etc. Other things to note - tallest point in the state, incredibly short approach, best winter crag on cold sunny days (completely south facing), multiple camping options, & you can always go hang out and grab a beverage at the Lodge's restaurant "The Bear's Den" that sits atop the crag!Another great spot is Dardanelle Rock, being super close to Little Rock & not far from i-40, this is a convenient crag & a sport climber's dream... that is if you climb 5.10 or above.  The climbing here is tough, but proud - containing some of the best 5.12s in the state. It also hosts a few decent moderate trad routes.  The Arkansas Climber's Coalition has adopted this crag through a program with the City of Dardanelle & AR Natural Heritage Commission, so if you notice anything that needs to be cleaned up or otherwise, shoot an email to info@arkansasclimbers.org Mt. Magazine: If coming from the West on i-40, take exit 35 toward Ozark. If coming from the East on i-40, take exit 88 towards Pottsville.  Sign in at the Visitor's Center. Park on the West side of the lot at the Lodge.

*TEXT INCOMING** *TEXT INCOMING**

The climbing is short, bad, and not well protected.   This area is on Private Property. Please stay away.