Climbing Near Lancaster, Ohio

The Lower Junk Yard is a tall, featured wall just to the south of the Junkyard. It has a few easy climbs that can be top roped. Much like the Junkyard, the ground is littered with broken glass, so watch out.If anyone is aware of the original names of the routes in this area, proposed grades or who holds the FA, go right ahead and edit the pages.  The names are placeholders, taken from junk I picked up from the ground.  -PJ Located south of the junkyard only on a dozen yards or so. The top of the Lower Junkyard cliff runs parallel to the junkyard. Look for the large shinny bolts at the edge of the cliff.

Nice overhung area with lots of pockets and features, not well developed so bring some brushes and make up some lines! Rock is quite crumbly so watch out for broken holds, and brush soft. 39.732895 N, -82.601680 W Around 100-200 yards past junkyard, follow the trail until the fallen tree on the right side, go down the hill another 20-30 feet and left until you see the overhang and cave.

This area is mostly in the sun and has a great view of downtown Lancaster from the top of the cliff in the winter. Routes can be climbed as highball boulder problems or you can use the eye bolts installed on top to climb the routes on top rope. Note: This area has historically been a popular hangout spot and unfortunately has lots of glass at the base of routes and in some cases on top of the rock. Work is being done to clean it up, but that means you will probably encounter it while out climbing. Be careful!  39.733166N, -82.602810W