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Climbing Near Jauregui, Guanajuato

Featured Trad, Sport, Bouldering, and other popular climbing routes and climbing areas Jauregui, Guanajuato.

Nearby Climbing Areas


Alcocer

19 Miles Away | 0 Routes

Alcocer is a small village about 10 minutes drive from San Miguel de Allende. There are at least 100 sport routes in the area spread out along the hillside. Most of the cliffs are short from 20 to about 40 feet. The rock is mostly solid and of a good quality volcanic riolite. I only had time to check out one of the areas called school wall. It's not a destination climbing spot but if you are a climber staying in the city of San Miguel and are a little tired of site seeing like I was then this is a worth while diversion. It's possible to find routes in the shade most of the day, but in the morning I think the school wall would be fully shaded. There is also a good range of routes for nearly everyone from 5.8 all the way up to 5.13. The route setters did a good job an and it's well bolted with good quality hardware. Although most of the anchors are just two bolts without chains. From the center of San Miguel it takes about 20-25 minutes. Drive to Alcocer. Head upwards on calle real until you reach the top along the hillside. The cobble stone road turns into a rough dirt road. A taxi can also take you there. Cost me about 250 pesos one way and I called the taxi when we were ready to leave and he came back to pick us up. You will see the school wall at this point and you can pick your way up the rocky cactus strewn hillside. There is a trail but we never really found it but we found enough cattle paths that wonder all over so it was easy enough to get to the school wall with about 5 to 10 minutes walking. The other walls would take a little longer and or you might want to park in a different location so maybe someone else can provide better detail on those but I could see some of them from school wall so It would be possible to hike from the same location

La Cañada

25 Miles Away | 1 Routes

There are almost never other climbers here, but if there is, then it's a lot of climbers, like 5-10, rappel and sport climbing outings and clinics held here, but not very often. There is a small bouldering cove right before you get to the actual crag, its very orange in color and the locals of the town that the crag overlooks (El Marques) sometimes have barbeques in the bouldering spot. All the boulder holds are marked with chalk, the wall is probably 4.5 meters max in height. DO NOT come here just for bouldering, this place is so old and has seen so many climbers that all te holds are covered in a greasy glossy feel, there is almost no friction, it's real rock but it feels exactly like resin rocks, like the fake rocks at amusement parks. There are probably about 10 boulders from V2-V7, but they are by no means "classics" and are very confusing. The easier routes on the main crag also have that fake rock feel, but the two hardest ones still have grip/friction on their holds. The seating can be tricky, especially if there are more than 5 people. There are ants and animal droppings in some spots. The good thing is that there is shade there all day long. The routes range from 5.7-5.11d or 5.12a, or 4+-7c+ for all you weirdoes out there. Some of the routes are potentially dangerous if you fall, but the bolts are very close together so I guess you could say it's well protected. There are several big rocks at the base with bolts in them, do not be put off by this, people simply practice putting in bolts on those rocks. The two easiest routes are very obvious, they are in between two dihedrals, so they are basically in the corner. The two hardest routes are also very obvious as they are the tallest, blankest, and slightly overhanging. Park in the obvious parking lot, there is a single tree right next to the trail up to the crag for shade. Follow the clay-colored trail up the hill and about halfway up, there is a small bouldering half-cave to the left. Continue up the trail and past the satellite compound. There is going to be a fork in the path, the left one goes up to the top of the crag where you can find 3 very spaced glue in bolts for rappelling, and the right path goes down around the main rock and leads to the crag.


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* Distances are approximations from location associated with the route.
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