Climbing Near Ithaca, New York

From the bottom of the gorge below the suspension bridge near the Johnson art museum. On a cold winter in 1981 this seep formed in the (southern, shady) gorge wall and made a good pitch. I was the leader and Nigel Dyson - Hudson followed. Finish at the gorge rim. There is parking near the mouth of the gorge, but gorge trail is closed in winter.

The Sweedler Preserve at Lick Brook has three major falls (upper, middle & lower) with heights 140ft, 47ft, and 67ft, respectively. The area is managed by the Finger Lakes Land Trust, allowing Lick Brook to remain wild and undeveloped. You can approach the falls from below (Rt 13/34/96) or above (Town Line Rd). If going to the lower falls, the Rt 13/34/96 approach is shorter. Lower Falls approach: from the center of Ithaca, take 13 south just under 5 miles. Stay left as 13 splits right and Rt 34/96 goes left. As the road splits, carefully cross the north bound lanes and drive into the unmarked parking area (which can hold about 15 cars). Walk east along the north edge of the field, over the railroad bridge and pick up the trail to your right as you cross over Cayuga Inlet. The lower falls will be the first that you encounter. Total distance from the parking lot is about 0.6 miles. Upper Falls approach. From Ithaca, follow Rt. 13 south past Buttermilk Falls State Park and take an immediate left on Sand Bank Rd. Continue 1.6mi and bear right onto Town Line Rd. You'll see a sign for Sweedler Preserve right where Lick Brook crosses the road. The parking pullout is on the right just after you turn onto Town Line Road (next to the sign for Sweedler Preserve) - it holds 4 or 5 cars). Walk downstream past the trailhead registry for 0.25 miles to the Upper Falls overlook. You can rap to the top of the Upper Falls from this point or walk slightly further down and rap into the canyon to the base of the falls. The lower falls are 0.9 miles from the trailhead registry. Again you probably need to rap to get down to the top of the lower falls (but you can follow the trail down to the base of the lower falls). The middle falls are slightly before the lower falls and require a rap as well. A nice day would be to climb all three falls from bottom to top.

The Ludlowville Falls over the Salmon Creek, just north of Ithaca and Lansing NY. Not clear if climbing is permitted. You'd have to cross portions of potentially unfrozen river. From Ithaca drive about 6 miles north on Rt 34 then turn left on Rt 34B. Follow Ludlowville Rd until it hits a T intersection. Turn right onto Mill St and then make an immediate left into Ludlowville park. The trail down to the creek is at the end of the park.