Climbing Near Huntington Beach, California

The rock that is about 150 feet off the southern end of the beach in the water. You can climb all over this rock, and traversing it is fun. You can also climb up and jump off the top in high tide. It's pretty juggy, and anything I've ever done on it has been about V0. If there happens to be an established name for this route out there, let me know and I can change it. If you're standing in the cave where Iron Man is, simply look towards the water and the rock should be pretty obvious. All you have to do is swim out there.

Shade and Sun. Best times are late in the day after the cliff has had some time to dry out. The climbing here is characterized by sandstone caves that come out into a short cliff. The sandstone is typically juggy. It can be VERY greasy. Recommended to bring shoes, chalkbag, brush for holds, towel to clean off shoes and get sand out of your eyes. Awesome landings onto soft sand beach. No need for a crashpad in many spots. Craig Fry's "Southern California Bouldering Guide, 2nd edition" has this area listed and info. Drive to Corona Del Mar State Beach. There is free parking along the roads that run along the beach or pay parking inside the park. The Cliff is located at the extreme west side of the beach. If you're in the beach parking lot head west past the picnic area and scramble over the rocks to a staircase that leads down the cliff to the beach and bouldering.

Shady, no people, good for warming up or if the beach is crowded The boulder is partly behind a bush immediately adjacent to the parking lot. If you head up the hill to Pirates Cove from the parking lot or bathrooms, the boulder is tucked away on the right.