Climbing Near Holyoke, Massachusetts

This is a trail-side basalt boulder at the Mt. Tom Reservation. These trails are frequented by hikers and runners, but the boulder is is located on one of less frequently used trails, well-shaded by the trees. It is approximately 15 feet in height with numerous routes on each face. Park at the log cabin at the base of Mt. Tom, and cross the road to the trails. Turn right immediately, and continue bearing right for an approximately 10 minutes hike. The boulder is easily visible from the trail, and you can’t miss it. The coordinates for this location are 42.2364120, -72.6432580.

Mount Tom is a prominent rocky ridge located on the Easthampton/Holyoke line, just west of the Connecticut River. The area is very popular with hikers, bikers, bird watchers, paragliders, and other outdoor recreators. Its rugged and extensive trails, great views, and easy access lend to this popularity. The exposed traprock cliffs on its west face that are very visible from the Easthampton side look like they might be inviting to rock climbers, but these are unfortunately quite loose. In the winter, however, several ice flows form along this face and have been climbed regularly for many years. The park is also littered with some standalone boulders and hard-to-find, short ledge that offers some bouldering possibilities. The main parking for Mount Tom is located at 125 Reservation Rd, Holyoke, MA 01040.The ice climbs can also be approached from the Easthampton side, but parking may not be allowed on those side streets.

Mount Tom State Reservation has ice climbs. The area can be accessed from Christopher Clark Road.Approach for climbs at the northern end of the Mount Tom ridge: from Christopher Clark Road, walk down the road a mile or so until you get to a big boulder in the middle of the road. A few hundred feet past that is a pullout on the left. Roughly halfway between the boulder and the pullout, bushwhack into the woods, aiming for a faint snow ramp that diagonals up and left through the steep hillside above you. Follow this ramp to the wide open talus field (it won't be obvious as talus when looking at it from afar). The start of Diagonal Gully and Birch Tree Gully is just to the right of the top of this talus/snow field. The start of Scottish Gully is to the left of the top of the talus/snow field. Both Birch Tree Gully and Scottish Gully will be visible from the talus/snow field.