Climbing Near Eugene, Oregon

This popular wall is located in the heart of Eugene minutes from Elevation climbing gym, The Crux climbing gym, REI, and downtown pubs and restaurants. Despite its small size it has a great concentration of cracks. The basalt columns are all trad and TR lines that average 47 feet (14.3 meters) and have many nice bolted anchors and chains at top.The Columns get afternoon to evening sun and can be crowded with the after-work crowds. It is a great place to practice crack-technique and leading. The routes mostly range from 5.6 to 5.12, but the locals will tell you about the "off" holds and variations to make the climbs more challenging.Important note: The route-name board and ratings were done by someone who doesn't climb at The Columns, so some of the ratings are therefore incorrect, both high and low. Also, many routes are missing from the board because the city's guide-writer didn't know that they exist. Trust Tom Rogers's old guide with ratings by Alan Watts (of Smith Rock fame).Finally, while the rock here is generally solid, occasionally the rock might break off. A few years back a large block came off the top of the route "Limp Dick." As a result, the right half of the crag has a detestable chainlink fence over it. Luckily the best climbs remain open.HISTORYBetween 1893 and the 1930s, the columns were exposed by quarrying operations that provided rocks for the building of the Willamette Street and Shelton McMurphey House in Eugene. Material was moved by horse pulled wagons as well as narrow gauge railroad to the local construction sites. The remaining wide bowl of rock became popular for rock climbing around the 1940s.  Located in Downtown Eugene at 2nd and Lincoln. The approach is 30sec from your car.

This section stretches from north to south from Salem to Cottage Grove right down the fertile valley, and east to west from the Coast Range into the Willamette National Forest. There aren't any super popular crags here, but they are loved by the locals who climb them.A number of relatively modern sport crags exist, so check out Eagles Rest, Lookout Point, and the Garden.  There is quality bouldering at the Garden, TRing at Skinner Butte, big walls at Wolf Rock, and quality trad at Moolack. With an active local community, new options sprout up each year.  See individual areas for directions

This small cave area is the furthest left area at Eagles, from the Dream Wall use established trails that trend up and left, you'll first pass Midgard and eventually reach the Cloud Deck. This small cave currently contains one mixed 5.8 route and two 12s. Furthest Left cave, up hillside from Dream Wall, past Midgard