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Featured Trad, Sport, Bouldering, and other popular climbing routes and climbing areas Deer Isle, Maine.
Free access on public beach. Beach faces south, there’s a very cool and fog horn noise that you can hear. This crag is the perfect beach chill hang out with some climbing. I wouldn’t say it’s worth driving far just to climb here as there’s not a lot of options, but if you’re looking to chill at the beach and have a fun small town maine experience with some climbing this is definitely the spot. The town that’s 5 minutes away is also a really fun spot to hang out. Park in the parking lot of Sandy beach. Walk to the beach and then take a left follow the train that leads into a patch of woods. Walk until you find another smaller beach. Directly to the right is the Boulder cluster. This cluster of boulders is very hard to miss. FROM PARKING LOT TO BOULDER: 5 minute walk.
Bluff Head is a super secluded undeveloped place near the head of the Bagaduce River. There's great potential for a few boulder problems, and a few trad single pitch lines or possibly sport lines if someone wanted to bother to bolt it. This place is remote, hard to get to, and short and dirty and kinda chossy when you arrive. But hey, it makes you forget that you're in the regiment for a bit so that's worth something right? Extremely vegetated, with animals living in a burrow halfway up the face.It faces south west, and has mid day to afternoon sun, and looks over a beautiful scenic part of the Bagaduce River._________ for more local detail ask the staff of the climbing wall at Maine Maritime Academy, located in Castine. There are two potential approaches. The first is the way we went. 1) Load up canoes / kayaks, paddle up the Bagaduce from Castine, make sure you time it with the tides as tidal currents can run up to 6 knots in part of the river. Canoe up the river till you see the magnificent rock face on the northern shore, boom, you're there.2) Drive in, the crag is near Sedgewick Maine, follow the google map directions, pull off and bushwhack through a barely existent animal path to the top of the cliff.
Pen Bay to Schoodic Point: including offshore islands and coastal lands Granite is the one word to know about this part of Maine. It defines the landscape and the history of the land. History stretches back farther here than almost anywhere else on the continent, in terms of European presence at least. These shores have been logged, farmed, fueled shipbuilding and home to some of the greatest merchant fleets of anywhere in the world. America's first naval battle was fought in these waters, and ancient forts from the revolutionary war can be found on these shores. Lobsterman and beautiful schooners still ply the waters in the summers. For many this is the heart of Maine, and the bedrock of the place is Granite. Maine became the engine for granite production in the north east. Many of these now low islands used to have tall granite domes, that were systematically quarried and then through ease of access to the water the granite was shipped to Boston, to New York, to build the finest buildings on the east coast. The pink granite of Acadia can be found here, and a granite quarry is still active on Crotch Island. There are endless islands, small year round fishing villages, the occasional manse of some of the oldest money in the country, and many places to get lost. Camden Hills are on the western shore of Penobscot bay, and the best way to get to Acadia is to take a boat and sail across the bay and through Merchants Row till you come to Somes sound, then you can go ashore and climb the beautiful cliffs of Mt Desert Island. If you go anywhere in Maine to climb, go here. This region encompasses two of Maine's major climbing attractions, Camden Hills perennially popular with locals and with a strong local community history, and Acadia National Park, one of the major American national parks and also a source of storied seaside climbing. Camden Hills on Mountain Project Acadia National Park on Mountain Project Guidebooks Both Camden and Acadia each have a respective guidebook that covers the local area, available at local climbing shops. The guidebooks are highly recommended and contain useful topos to help orient yourself. The proceeds also help support the locals who maintain the cliff hardware and act as stewards of the cliffs, ensuring continued access. Guide Services A number of Guiding outfits service both Camden and Acadia. Atlantic Climbing School Acadia Mountain Guides
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