Climbing Near Coatesville, Pennsylvania

Shaded rock outcropping that faces south and gets winter sun into the late afternoon. The rock is very very solid gneiss, grippy and reliable. One overhanging (20ish degrees) face with hard, short, quality climbs and some other isolated spots worth climbing. Be careful climbing on the overhanging face, I found 2 old rusted timber nails banged into a couple cracks. I broke them off at the base near the rock and didn't see any more but its worth keeping your eyes open. Park at the gravel pull-off on North Reeds Road just after the large electrical box. There are remnants of an old rail-trail behind the electrical box. Follow the trail into the woods walking downstream for like 3 minutes tops. The rocks will be uphill not far from the cut in the woods.

Fairly secluded next the the east branch of the Brandywine creek. This outcropping of boulders is adjacent to a recently established small memorial park so just try to be quiet if possible. I have never seen another climber here although a couple sharp edges from broken flakes leads me to believe I'm no the first to have the idea. Rock quality is anywhere from straight choss to something that resembles granite but isn't. Because of its proximity to the creek this area takes a long time to dry out after rain. Some parts never receive direct sunlight. There are definitely more problems to be had here than are listed, and some on the scattered boulders surrounding the main outcropping. Most spots need additional cleaning, and bring a bag for trash as there is a seemingly never ending supply from before the park was established You can park on the large shoulder just after the bridge on Dowlin Forge Road. From here its under five minutes approach. If this parking is full there is more along Dowlin Forge road making probably 10-15 minute approach.

Shady, and secluded, this is arguably the best quality rock in the whole are with one solid problem on it. Worth spending some time to make it work. From peace pipe follow the rock around to corner to the tall smooth face.