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Featured Trad, Sport, Bouldering, and other popular climbing routes and climbing areas Cleveland, Ohio.
There are 2 sections of wall to climb at Doan Brook. The first is rather unimpressive and is about 20 ft high with only a few routes to the top and a few places to boulder. This is located where Delaware St. would be if it continued across North Park into the ravine. The other section is much better and is about 30ft high with many more places to climb. It is located where Roxboro St. would be if it also crossed over North Park into Doan Brook. The wall is around 30ft high and 100ft wide. This has some nice jagged rock with a lot of great holds and lots of opportunities for routes and bouldering. There are also a few sturdy trees leaning over the top that have the possibility of setting up a top rope. The only issue is that in the summer it is constantly moist and thus slippery and has mosquitos and spider webs. The rock can be very dirty and loose, be careful. Rocks are located along Doan Brook between N. Park Rd. and Fairhill Rd. in Cleveland, OH.
Seven 20-40 foot shale cliffs that freeze into some nice lines courtesy of backyard runoff. All north facing, exposed to the wind... you're standing on a beach on Lake Erie afterall. If you come on a day without wind it's pretty pleasant. Most of the routes can only be done on lead, the cliffs are part of the park but to set a TR you'd have to trespass through people's backyards. Don't worry about falling through the ice and drowing in the lake, you're standing on the beach. Walk 30 ft further towards the lake and then you're standing on lake ice. Use caution/common sense/don't die. Access Issues: Unknown. It's a city park and their aren't any rules specifically prohibiting climbing. But, it's Ohio and people are terrified of liability and human powered fun so who knows. That being said you're at the bottom of a lake cliff in winter, not exactly a high traffic area. MP says I should include info on camping. Technically you can camp on the lake for free, go ice fishing for fresh food, and live like a king. Alternatively their is a taco bell 5 minutes down the road. I've led one route so far. If anyone has climbed here before leave a comment so I don't falsely claim someone's FA. Google directions for Columbia Park. (It's the intersection of State Route 6 and Columbia Road). Park on the south side of Route 6 in the small parking lot next to the traffic light. Walk across the road to the tiny park. Go down the flight of stairs to the lake. Turn right.
Some fun boulders of good quality for Ohio climbing. A small but dense area of boulders ranging in difficulty from V0 to V9 (currently, potential for harder problems). Most problems get shade in the morning, and sun in the afternoon. From the main parking lot across from the golf course, take the right most set of stairs down into the woods, and follow the obvious trail to the right heading upstream. You will see the river to your left a fair ways down hill. Eventually take the path left and work your way down to the river, crossing over the viaduct to the other side. Hike downstream and the first boulder you come across will have Snake Eyes (V2) on it.
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