Climbing Near Chilcoot-Vinton, California

The biggest and most impressive wall in this area. Climbs are around 85', some cleaning needed, but the majority of the rock is pretty solid, and the anchors at the top inspire confidence. Some pretty great lines to climb here. I found three sets of anchors up here. Two looked brand newish, and the ones for suntan wall looked older, but still in good condition. Note that the highest anchors for sunspot wall are out on the face below a point of rock. If you are setting up a top rope here, use caution. I ended up laying on my belly and reaching down to clip the bolts and set up a top rope. It was not comfortable, and I have long arms. Rapping off here is even sketchier because of how exposed the top is, and you are well above the anchors. Once we got the TR set up one of us rapped of by going further to the climbers left and going out on a ledge then taking a small swing, but a walk off is probably the more reasonable method. Across the creek and up the slope towards the large, obvious lightly colored wall. Anchors for sunspot and suntan can be accessed by walking around the loose slope to the right and hanging left and up towards the small dead tree.

This aptly named area is quite sunny, and has some enjoyable routes. The routes are longer and steeper than they seem from the road. I found at least 4 sets of 2 bolt anchors at the top of the various rocks. The few routes I've tried have been fun and the rock is solid, but beware. There are some spots with loose rock. Helmets and caution recommended. 6.4 miles up from Chilcoot on Frenchman lake road (284), there are two pullouts on the right side of the road, the first one is right across from the crag, and the second is just around the corner. The rocks are obvious across the creek and up a short scree field. Crossing the creek can be tricky, bring extra shoes and don't underestimate the creek. There is a log in the creek, but its not quite good enough for crossing; bring extra shoes unless you have bare feet of steel.The slope itself is fairly annoying to walk on, the rocks/dirt are loose to the base of the crags, but the actual access to the anchors at the top isn't bad for walk-offs/top rope setup.

Middle wall at this area. Across the creek and up the slope.