Climbing Near Chico, California

This boulder is in a relatively exposed area, just below Monkey Face. It is classic Upper Park chossy rock with loads of moss. Perfect height for some boulder problems. Take the trail headed towards monkey face and continue until you come to the crossroads. Go up Manzanita Trail and then traverse right until you reach the rock. Alternatively, you can take a right and head up Upper trail until you are parallel with the rock. There should be small run off trails that you can follow up the hill until you reach it. Refer to the map for trail names.

The 'canyon' walls on both sides of Big Chico Creek are lined in Lovejoy Basalt. Up to 150' tall, there are numerous potential climbing areas. Due to park restrictions, there is no permanent gear allowed. No bolts, no drilling. As the nature of the rock is mostly face, the majority of the climbs are top roped. There are also numerous boulders; over the years many lines have been worked, sent, and lost in the sands of time. A great place to bring a pad and a towel. Please respect the rules, and keep the Chico local crag open to all. Excellent swimming holes dot the creek, with many of the developed climbs adjacent to swimming holes. Be sure to know the rules of the park, such as no glass, no alcohol, etc. The top rope anchors are all natural anchors; rocks and trees. Most anchors need to be extended some distance, some more than 30'. It is imperative that long slings and webbing are available. Caution and common sense are necessary. As with many areas in Northern California, there is a plethora of poison oak. Enter Upper Bidwell Park on Wildwood Ave. As of June, 2015, the road in the park is only open to Bear Hole on a limited basis. The road past Bear Hole is closed, so most climbing areas involve hiking. Check the internet for current closure days and times. Bicycles are a good option for quicker access.

The north wall at the Salmon Hole swimming area. Summer finds crowds of swimmers, fewer now that the road is not open past Bear Hole. Summer can be too warm in the afternoon. Walk or ride bike to Salmon Hole on the Upper Park Road. At the parking area, head down the marked trail to the swimming hole. All climbs are on the north rim, the side of the creek you are currently on.