Climbing Near Carlsbad, New Mexico

Sitting Bull Falls is a rare oasis-like area in an otherwise dry, scrappy desert. It is a day-use only national recreation area with pavilions, grills, picnic tables, restrooms and a paved path to view the impressive spring-fed waterfalls. The small pools up above the falls offer a great way to splash and cool yourself off in the warmer months of the year.Climbing:As for the climbing, expect few crowds and prevalent shade. The wall is north-facing and this area can be super cold in the winter. The Permian reef limestone is the highest quality limestone in the state of New Mexico and the climbing on the Big Horn Wall is reminiscent of limestone climbing in Spain.Keep an eye out killer bee hives/activity between the Brit Route and Fire Water on the Rosebud Wall.Because the area is a national recreation area, there's a 5$ per car day use fee payable via self-serve envelopes at the parking area. Operating Hours:Sitting Bull Falls Recreation Area has strict opening and closing times and the closing time varies depending on the time of year:April 1 to October 15 - 8:30am to 6:00pm hard closure time. Last vehicles allowed in at 5:00pm.October 16 to March 31 - 8:30am to 5:00pm hard closure time. Last vehicles allowed in at 4:00pm.All users of the area must be out of the area by the closure time. Allow yourself 15 to 20 minutes to hike out and get out. From Carlsbad, 8 miles out of town to the west on 285, take 137 South for about 25-30 miles. The turn off of highway 137 for Sitting Bull is not as far as the highway signs indicate--the turn off is just before MM31 and after MM32 if coming from HWY 285. This turn is well-signed. Follow the sign to the Sitting Bull Falls area and park. Follow the paved path about 150 yards and take a major right on an unpaved path up to the top of the falls for about 300 yards, up even with the falls, look for small trails to the right over to the climbing area. See the climbing area descriptions for more in-depth hiking approach beta.  The walls are visible from the Sitting Bull Falls Recreation Area parking lot, however, the approach is a longer hike than it appears. The approach is a bit convoluted in order to protect the delicate environment located just beyond the artificial grass lawn, 1000 square foot brick restroom facility, and concrete and pavement parking lot.From the self-service pay station, follow the concrete path SE toward the falls for about 30 yds, where a well-defined dirt path signed for the top of the waterfall branches off and up to the right. Ascend laboriously up the steep winding trail for a few minutes until it flattens out. After the trail levels out, the trail bends to the west, where a faint climber's trail diverges to the right. Take this faint trail over towards the wall. After ~20 yds you'll be looking across and down at the Rosebud Wall and Big Horn Wall. From here, there are two possible downclimbs to reach the cliff--one is 4th class (not recommended) and the other is a second-class trail down.

The upper wall with only seven routes. Warm up area for those strong enough for the Big Horn Wall. Shade is always prevalent. Killer Bees on the left, don't get swarmed. If anyone gets stung, run far and fast. Bees inject you with a pheremone that marks you as a target for the rest of the bees to attack. The walls are visible from the Sitting Bull Falls Recreation Area parking lot, however, the approach is a longer hike than it appears. The approach is a bit convoluted in order to protect the delicate environment located just beyond the artificial grass lawn, 1000 square foot brick restroom facility, and concrete and pavement parking lot.From the self-service pay station, follow the concrete path SE toward the falls for about 30 yds, where a well-defined dirt path signed for the top of the waterfall branches off and up to the right. Ascend laboriously up the steep winding trail for a few minutes until it flattens out. After the trail levels out, the trail bends to the west, where a faint climber's trail diverges to the right. Take this faint trail over towards the wall. After ~20 yds you'll be looking across and down at the Rosebud Wall and Big Horn Wall. From here, there are two possible downclimbs to reach the cliff--one is 4th class (not recommended) and the other is a second-class trail down.

The Big Horn Wall is the main attraction at Sitting Bull Falls, featuring some of New Mexico's most difficult routes on the highest quality limestone in the state. This area is occasionally heralded as the best sport climbing crag in the state, despite the limited selection of lines. But what this crag lacks in quantity, it compensates for in quality. Every line on the wall would be a 4 star route at any other crag in New Mexico.Generally speaking, routes here are steep jug hauls, with long moves between large holds and "active" rests that add up to a building pump that tends to culminate in a mad-dash for the anchor and a desperate clip. Unfortunately the easier lines are getting polished, but as more of the locals are diverted to Last Chance Canyon, this problem likely will not get much worse.The crag faces north and receives virtually no sun. Heat-tolerant folks will be able to climb here on all but the warmest days, while those in search of 'redpoint conditions' should plan to visit in winter.Bees are occasionally found on this wall as well, although there are no known hives on this wall. This wall is visible from the Sitting Bull Falls State Park parking lot, however, the wall is further away than it appears, and the approach is a bit convoluted in order to protect the delicate environment located just beyond the artificial grass lawn, 1000 square foot brick restroom facility, and concrete and pavement parking lot.From the pay station, follow the concrete path SE toward the falls for about 30 yds, where a well-defined dirt path signed for the top of the waterfall branches off to the right. Ascend laboriously up the steep winding trail until it flattens out. After the trail levels out, the trail bends to the west, where a faint climber's trail diverges to the right. After 20 yds the Rosebud Wall and Big Horn Wall will be visible. There are two possible downclimbs to reach the cliff, one is 4th class, the other 2nd.To reach the Big Horn Wall, climb down to the Rose Bud Wall, and traverse the base westwardly to the Bighorn Wall. The two walls are very close to each other.