Climbing Near Butte, Montana

The Wedge is a great sub-alpine climbing area with numerous routes up to 6 pitches in length. Grades run from 5.8 up to 5.12. Most of the climbing is on the northwest to southwest aspects. The lack of elevation gain on the hike make this formation an enjoyable day trip.Climbing on the Wedge is almost always adventurous and requires a diverse skill set. You'll encounter slabs, roofs, cracks, run-outs, traverses, various kinds of animal poop, ancient hardware, and an exciting descent. Overall, the climbing is fun and the stone solid. Definitely worth the hike. From the Moose Creek Trailhead, pass the outhouse and cross the creek on a small bridge. The trail follows the creek, crossing meadows for a mile and a half until it goes back over the creek. Continue following the main creek for 10-15 minutes. You will come to a sharp right turn uphill to get into another drainage leading up to a meadow. From this point you can finally see the Wedge. At the far end of the meadow are the remains of a cabin. Continue past the cabin to the base of The Wedge.Total hike is about 4 miles, with very little elevation gain.

Three large boulders set next to one another with a variety of potential climbs. Overall pretty good rock quality, as Humbug can be hit or miss, and some good lines. I currently have put up two, but feel free to get out there and add some more. In the area there are probably hundreds of other lines to check out, of varying quality. From the main trailhead follow the trail behind the bathroom that parallels Moose Creek. There is really only one trail and no off chutes so it’s relatively easy to find. Walk for 2.8km, beyond where the stream splits off from the trail, and you will find the boulders.

Classic area developed by the Dirty Sox club pre-2000. Public land.From Butte's Bouldering Guide, Dwight Bishop 2005 (out of print):"This area is the closest venue to Butte. It is made up of several spires above the west bound "Chain Removal Area" on I-90. Most of the routes tend to be severe and bolt protected. The climbing is on small crystals that are willing to break off when least expected. This is a good area to set up top rope and play on the bigger faces. [...] Note: the 'sport' routes here were originally put up in the early days of rappel bolting. And thus, there remains a few home-made hangers and a number of 'sporty' run outs when compared to more recent trends. Any homemade hangers require small diameter biners or a wired nut placed through the eye" On the westbound I-90 Lane about a mile before exit 228 is a chain removal area you can park at and the rocks are above the road. Coming from Butte you have to drive to homestake exit to turn around and get on the westbound lane.