Climbing Near Beech Mountain, North Carolina

Holloway Mountain is a fantastic area for new climbers. The top access to the rock allows for easy toprope setup, but make sure to bring static line, slings or cordelette, because the wall is lacking bolted anchors. There are a couple of bolted sport routes at Holloway, including Changeling, a 5.12. There are also some great trad leads as well. The rock gets the sun in the afternoon, which allows for great conditions all year round if it isn't snowing. Weekends can occasionally be crowded, especially in summer, but weekdays are a great time to hit up Holloway. Holloway is used by Appalachian State University's Recreation Management program to teach climbing site facilitation, and is also utilized by several other local schools for outdoor education, so it is possible to run into a group of students while climbing. They typically stick to the right side of the rock. From Boone, take NC 105 to Foscoe and take a left on Church Road. Drive a short distance and then take another left on Holloway Mountain Road.Holloway Mtn Rd. will turn from a paved road to unpaved. As you drive up the mountain after the road turns to gravel, start looking up and over your left shoulder to see the Holloway Mountain cliffs. The road is tiny but some small pull-offs exist right before and directly in front off the cliffs. Extra tips: -The cliffs are closer to the 105 side of Holloway mtn rd than the 221 side. -there is a tan/brown house within shouting distance up the mountain road with a mailbox number 660. -parking is VERY limited (4 cars?)

Ship Rock is located on the Blue Ridge. It offers an excellent selection of routes at all grades, most of which are very high quality and quite protectable. Its northwestern exposure means that it comes into the sun late in the day, making it an excellent spot for the warmer months. Due to its number of excellent moderates and proximity to Appalachian State University, it's pretty popular. The rock is a bomber metamorphic (quartzite?) scored with numbers of awesome horizontals that make great holds and take excellent gear. A "standard Shiprock rack" may consist of a set of stoppers, doubles on cams from 00 TCU-.75 camalot, and singles of #1/2 camalots. See individual descriptions for more info. Ship Rock is approached via the Rough Ridge parking area on the Blue Ridge Parkway, located ~2 miles north of the Linn Cove Viaduct. From Rough Ridge, walk south down the parkway for 1/3 of a mile. Cross a bridge, pass a roadcut, and look right. A trail should become apparent immediately after the roadcut.

The Upper Tier has a limited number of climbs, but makes up for that in exposure and quality. There are four described climbs in the N.C. Selected Climbs Guidebook. The Upper Tier also has some of the best views of the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Linn Cove Viaduct. Well worth the hike just for the views. The rock quality is similar to the Main Tier, solid quartzite. Nothing larger than a #2 Camalot is needed for these climbs. Bring plenty of nuts, TCU's, and finger to hand sized cams. Park at the Rough Ridge trail head parking lot. Hike the Blue Ridge Parkway south back towards the Linn Cove Viaduct. Follow this for about five minutes until you cross the first bridge. Immediately after the bridge there will be a faint trail on the right that drops down into the drainage and then back up onto a slabby boulder. Follow this rock gully, staying close to the wall on the right for a few minutes up hill. At a large ledge, in front of the Gumfighter and Borrowed Time hike right on the ledge. Borrowed Time is the obvious corner with a hand-sized crack that stretches its length. Follow this narrow trail around some rhodo's and up the hill, through a small rock tunnel until you reach a landing. The first climb you come to will be Lost at Sea, the sharp arete. Do not use the Rough Ridge Trail to access any of the Ship Rock areas as it is now closed at the cliff tops.