Climbing Near Bailey, Colorado

Nice place close to Denver. Mostly boulder problems but some high ball problems that could be top roped. Rock is very rough in some places but the farther down the hill you go the better it gets. Be sure you visit the Barbwire Boulder where there are 4 killer routes. Be sure to brush chalk off so those who go to see the view and not climb don't have to look at it. Most routes are barely marked so look [closely]. To reach Daniels Park from Denver, travel south on I-25 to exit 188 (Castle Pines Parkway), and go west to Daniels Park Road. Turn right (north) and travel 2 miles through the park. One may also go south on Santa Fe Drive through Sedalia and turn left onto Daniels Park Road. The main parking lot has the majority of the problems. Go down the cliffs and you will find some high ball problems. Going farther down the hill you will find Barbwire Boulder (wraped with old barbwire fence). There are other places yet undiscovered here so do some exploring.

It is a great area to take someone interested in trying out climbing. The approach is....park and open your door. However, some of the crags do lie up the hill, a few minutes hike. I only know of one climb that has a single bolt (Green Slab Indirect) and there may be a few pitons that I didn't see, but the climbs are mostly crack, with some face done while on TR. Take US 285 (Hampden) West till you get to the North Turkey Creek exit. Go right for a few miles til you see the area, and pull out on the right.

The South Platte, a vast granite playground to the south and west of Denver, is known for its incredible crack climbs, strung out slabs, and towering summits. It encompasses the entire area between Conifer, and Sedalia, and just about everything south to the Elevenmile Canyon west of Colorado Springs.To climb successfully in the South Platte, it helps to be the adventurous type and like exploring. Many of these crags are well hidden until you stumble upon them! The rock quality can vary widely from bulletproof, fine grained granite to very coarse, friable rock which can feel like climbing on ball bearings at times.Bring a well-rounded rack of cams, some routes eat up double or triples in some sizes, and don't forget to bring a few big pieces. Tape gloves are a good idea at a lot of these spots too, otherwise your hands will get trashed.Some of the most popular areas with easy access and good quality rock can be found at:Cathedral Spires AreaThe Cathedral Spires group is a crack climber's paradise with also the "slab masters" crag, The Dome, as well. Approaches are usually 45 minutes to an hour.Devil's HeadHere are lots of three star routes, both trad and sport. There has been lots of recent development in the higher end grades. The rock is of exceptional quality.Elevenmile CanyonElevenmile Canyon has some of the best moderate grade multi-pitch climbs around, as well as recent sport route development. A popular destination for a couple of days of camping and climbing. Elevenmile Canyon is subject to a per day entrance fee.Pine AreaThis is home to the famous Sphinx Crack. Fortunately there is a heap of more moderate routes as well. Sphinx Rock and Squat Rock are currently closed.Turkey RocksGot a trip to Yosemite coming up? Then hit the cracks at Turkey rocks. This is home to Colorado's best granite crack climbing.West CreekThis includes Sheep's Nose and smaller crags. Please refer to the individual areas for detailed information on how to get there. Always bring a good map when traveling in the Platte! The updated book "Climb" published by The Mountaineer's Books has one comprehensive chapter on the history of climbing in the south platte starting with Ellingworth's ascent of the Bishop in 1924 and covering historical first ascents of Sphinx Crack, The Prayer Book (Wunsch's) and Field of Dreams. Recommended guidebooks: South Platte, The Climbers Guide. (Peter Hubbel) Comprehensive coverage of the South Platte. South Platte Rock, (Ken Trout) A selection of the best routes the South Platte has to offer. Rock Climbing Colorado, (Stewart M. Green) A state wide guide book that covers several of the more popular areas. A great book if you are visiting the state for a few weeks and want an overall reference. Please see the Colorado book listings for further details. See a bat on a route, give a shout. Climbers for Bat Conservation is working with climbers to understand bat ecology and why bats choose certain cracks and flakes. If you see bats, and want to tell them, here is their email (climbersforbats@colostate.edu) and their website ( climbersforbats.colostate.edu/).Climbers for Bat Conservation is a collaboration between climbers, bat biologists, and land managers to understand where bats roost and where large populations may reside. They are interested in finding bats because a new disease, called white-nose syndrome ( whitenosesyndrome.org/), has killed millions of bats in North America. This collaboration has identified bat roosts throughout the U.S., and as far away as Norway and Bulgaria. CBC was developed by biologists who climb and they are advocates for climbing access and bat conservation. If you see bats while climbing, please let them know by emailing them at climbersforbats@colostate.edu, or visiting their website to learn more ( climbersforbats.colostate.edu/).Rob SchorrZoologist, Colorado Natural Heritage Program ( sites.warnercnr.colostate.e…)Director, Climbers for Bat ConservationRobert.schorr@colostate.edu