Climbing Near Athens, Georgia

The Ansley Boulder is a small, sunny riverside block with a minute-long approach trail.It features an excellent, flat landing, beginner to moderate climbs, easy top-outs, and an uncountable amount of right heel hooks.The trails surrounding now belong to a private owner and mix with trails behind private residences (watch out for No Trespassing signs, beyond which I am not aware of any boulders anyway). The owner allows people access to the boulder as long as we keep it clean. It's a small, privet-filled area prone to erosion and washed up river trash, but also offers a haven for swimming dogs, fly fishers, and students who hammock and study after school. Still, there usually won't be more than 10 people out there in total at a time, and I've rarely seen another climber.My essentials for this area are 1 pad and bug spray. I'll leaf blow from time to time to keep the leaves off but the choss levels are low. The shortest walk-up (or, down) trail is accessed from a tiny roundabout at the end of Ansley Dr. It's not marked, but easily seen as a part in the trees to the right of the driveway/house at the end of the road. A longer trail starts in the Whitehall Apartments at the gravel road with an obvious stand with doggy waste bags. In either case, enter the park and head straight back towards the sound of the river - the short approach can bring you straight to the top of the block (after the 'please don't litter' sign) and you can head left or right to get to the landing. The longer trail will bring you to the bottom of the block from the left. If taking the longer trail, hit the river, then go left (following the current). I've never been in any way bothered for street parking, but please be mindful as the land is still private, and make a note on this page if you have any sort of access issues. If you know anything else about this boulder's ownership, first climbers/earlier route names, or interesting tidbits, let's add it to the page - comment, DM, whatever you need.

The first boulders you encounter from the parking lot. Walk from the parking lot towards the boulders.

Smaller boulders scattered around. Also a small quarry remnant. The original topo shows 11 problems Either head towards the Sideline Boulders and then turn left after crossing the creek Or head right downhill from the Shaking Rock Block, cross the creek and turn right