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Featured Trad, Sport, Bouldering, and other popular climbing routes and climbing areas Alta, Utah.
Albion Basin is one of the most beautiful areas in the entire Wasatch. Spectacular views of Devils Castle, Mt Wolverine, Tuscarora, etc etc. A plethora of wildlife, wild flowers, and rock make this a superb summer climbing destination. Please walk lightly in this area. I can see access becoming a major issue if the laws of the land are not obeyed. Most of the climbing consists of quartzite that can be ascended and descended with a single rope. There are also some nice limestone sport routes within in a close proximity to the southeastern most campground.With the exception of the Devils Castle routes (listed under Devils Castle) all routes are a single pitch. With very few exceptions the routes are primarily bolt protected. However, multi-pitch mixed gear (trad/sport) routes exist on Devils Castle. Drive up Little Cottonwood, through a gate guarded by a nice person giving out trail maps. continue up the canyon, Little Cottonwood continues and eventually turns to dirt. Follow the dirt road until it ends at a campground directly below Devils Castle.
This is a limestone formation within very close proximity to the albion basin campground. Currently five routes exist and are all bolt protected. Some routes have moderate runouts over easy terrain but are otherwise very well protected. Rap rings exist at the tops of the routes making nice, easy raps back down to the ground. Go to the southeastern most campsite (campsite 15 if i'm not mistaken). You will see a nice looking limestone pillar off to the east of this campground. You can not miss the limestone pillar, it is the only limestone that looks worth climbing in this area. Helmets are highly recommended in this area as many of the routes are dirty and the rock gets extremely loose and rotten near the top of the formation. When you are standing in the southeastern most campground you will see a narrow trail leading up towards this limestone formation. It starts very near a small runoff gully. Continue following this trail and bear right when in doubt. This will take you up to the base of the limestone over much gentler terrain than the trails that break off to the left of the stream bed.
There is a massive amount of rock to the East or left of Devils Castle's Apron. Most of it is quite low angle or broken up. This Buttress is an exception. It is a prominent pillar approx. 200m (maybe a bit more!?) to the left of the Devils Castle routes. It gets quite a bit of afternoon sun, but plan on having weather gear with you as you would for Devil's Castle. The rock is the same limestone found on DC. As for DC, shorter approach time as it is pretty much directly above the Albion Basin campground. See photo.
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