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Beacons Beach Guidebooks
California : San Diego County
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San Diego County Climbing Guide (2nd edition)Dave Kennedy and Chris Hubbard , Deadpoint Press, 2006
Dramatic cliffs with soaring multi-pitch climbs, steep, featured boulder fields too numerous for even the most prolific problem-solver, and sport routes on par with anything at Owens, Josh or Red Rocks. Oh, and the best climate in the world. Where can I find such a place, you ask? San Diego County, that's where. Overlooked and dis-missed by too many for too long, recognition of the many fine areas spread around the county is perhaps finally at hand. Rock climbing in San Diego has developed and matured over the past two decades, much as climbing has done around the country. While the county's reputation as mostly a bouldering area may remain in place, word has slowly crept out about the many great lead routes that exist in the vast backcountry expanses. With nearly 2000 routes dispersed over 4000 square miles, it's easy to see that part of the difficulty of climbing in SD is just getting to the crags. The county is mostly dense shrub-covered hills with stands of forest here and there, while a good-sized chunk of real estate is pure desert. Some significant areas require either a long drive, long approach or 4WD, or all three. But those who bother to look beyond the boundaries of familiar coastal areas like Mission Gorge, Santee or even Mt. Woodson are rewarded with wonderful spots like Corte Madera, Dos Cabezas, Valley of the Moon, and El Cajon Mountain. Many smaller but worthwhile areas dot the landscape as well; this book will describe 40 distinct, legally accessible areas, both the mundane and the magnificent. Urban San Diego has become increasingly densified, maybe qualifying more as America's finest traffic jam than anything else, but the outlying regions of the county, where the best climbing is found, have not been affected to a great degree and it is the natural elements more than anything else that pose the greatest challenges for climbers. For years climbers complained about the difficulty in exploring new areas due to the thick, often impenetrable brush, but the sobering reality of the October 2003 wildfires, and in particular the Cedar Fire (largest in state history), proved how tenuous our ability to climb is. Most of the rock in the county is granitic in nature; exposed portions of the huge batholiths of nearly solid stone that permeate much of the subsurface of California. Over time, erosion and uplift bring some rock aboveground where it is weathered and further fractured, sometimes creating cliffs several hundred feet high. In San Diego the climbing is generally on the boulder-laden hills seen throughout the county, and on a few larger cliffs that sit high above canyons. A type of metamorphosed stone, ancient and water-polished, is found at Mission Gorge and a few other coastal areas, while some of the backcountry formations have exquisitely featured granite patina hardly seen anywhere else. Although its reputation for fine weather is well-justified, this applies to the city of San Diego and not necessarily the county, which heats up quickly as one moves inland. This makes for wretchedly hot summers at some areas, effectively closing down a good portion of the local climbing. Stalwart souls still brave the conditions during most of the year, but this takes its toll, so the wise local seeks the cool summer shade of Mission Gorge mornings or even the Ocean Beach Pump Wall. A few areas receive afternoon shade and a late day session may be your ticket to summer paradise. Local climbing hits stride by fall when cooler temps open up many fine areas and by mid-winter, when very little climbing may be found anywhere else (Josh in January? You could get lucky!), San Diego is peaking with mild days often piling up one after the other. Storms do blow through here, so the unprepared climber may be surprised when fair coastal weather gives way to downright harsh backcountry conditions. The other main objective hazards are probably rattlesnakes and mountain lions. Respect them. Avoid them. Ditto for poison oak (except the respect part). Included: - Culp Valley - Cougar Crag - San Marcos Quarry - Twin Oaks - Lake Dixon - Rancho Bernardo - Twin Peaks - Lake Poway - Pomerado Boulders - Lake Ramona - Poway Crags - Pump Wall - La Jolla - Mt. Woodson - Rexrodes - Mt. Gower - San Diego River - Mission Gorge - Santee Boulders - Magnolia - Otay - Bonita - Wildcat Canyon - Mt. Helix - Twilight Zone - El Cajon Mountain - Descanso - Stonewall Peak - Shadow Crag - Lower Pine Creek - Lawson Peak - Sunrise Boulders - Glen Cliff - Corte Madera - McCain Valley - Valley of the Moon - Dos Cabezas - Cliffs of Insanity |
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San Diego County Climbing Guide (1st edition)Dave Kennedy and Chris Hubbard , Deadpoint Press, 1999
San Diego County encompasses over 4,000 square miles of the southwest corner of the United States. Arid hills and valleys dominate the landscape, complemented by a few small but pleasant mountain ranges. Scattered around the county are many enjoyable climbing spots, ranging from the extensive to the obscure. Though a reputation as a home of toproping and bouldering was once well-deserved, quality lead routes including excellent multi-pitch climbs are available. Most of the rock medium in the county is granitic in nature-indeed, a special type known scientifically as "Woodson Mountain granodiorite" composes many significant areas. An unusual kind of metamorphosed volcanic stone (which may in fact be a type of granite) is also found in areas like Mission Gorge. Most of this rock is about 100 million years old, part of an immense batholith of rock which underlies much of the region. What this oversimplification of geology means is that the rock in San Diego is generally solid, with erosion and ancient fracturing providing much of the climbable features. The recent discovery and development of new areas and enhancement of existing ones has transformed the county into a rich and varied climbing environment. While it lacks a true destination spot for visiting climbers, taken as a whole, plenty of nice routes exist. This guide is intended to provide an overview of the entire county including many new routes as well as a review and update of previously established areas. San Diego is a pleasant tourist- and military-oriented area, with a smattering of high-tech industries, and the suburban sprawl so common in Southern California has left its mark here with well over two million residents crowding the coastal hills and inland valleys. To the east, the sparsely populated backcountry contains thousands of acres of brushy, sometimes remote terrain-and a few jewels for climbers. Mt. Woodson is the best-known area, and probably still the most visited, offering classic topropes, bouldering and a few leads on compact granodiorite. The nearby Poway Crags boast vertical sport climbs on interesting, ultra-fine granite. Popular Mission Gorge is conveniently close to urban San Diego, with older traditional climbs supplemented by new, interesting sport routes. The nearly adjacent Santee Boulders, with its easy approach and multitude of quality face problems receives much traffic. To the south, Otay has a collection of short lead routes on metamorphic rock. The East County has some of the best quality rock in Southern California, with fine areas like Corte Madera and Valley of the Moon hosting much new-route activity beginning in the mid-80s. Though Mt. Woodson is San Diego's best-known bouldering area, beautiful McCain Valley far exceeds it in sheer volume, with comparable quality, and the "new" Culp Valley may eventually yield some of the county's best pure bouldering. A few other smaller areas worth a visit include Lake Dixon, Lake Ramona, Descanso and Lawson Peak. Climbing is possible year-round in San Diego, though summer heat renders many crags unpleasant. Some areas require long approaches which will deter many, but a jeep can alleviate the hiking in some cases for the tenderfoot. With a myriad of world-class facilities and diversions, San Diego has something to offer almost any climber. Included: - Lake Dixon - Culp Valley - North County Micro Crags - Lake Ramona - Mt. Woodson - Poway Crags - Urban Climbing - Otay - Mission Gorge - Santee Boulders - Descanso - Stonewall Peak - Lawson Peak - Corte Madera Mountain - McCain Valley - Valley of the Moon |
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The San Diego Climber Pocket GuideAllied Climbers of San Diego/SOS PrintingThe guidebook with the goods to San Diego's backcountry areas. Includes information on El Cajon Mountain, Corte Madera and Eagle Peak. Color photos with easy to ready topo overlays. |
