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La Saphir Guidebooks


International : Europe : France : Calanques

cover of the digital guidebook Climbing in the Calanques of marseille. With the permission from ''Les Grimpeurs association''

Climbing in the Calanques - Digital version

Les Grimpeurs / 2020

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This digital guidebook is the digital version of the hard copy book of the same name.

Climbing in the Calanques

Climbing in the Calanques

Les Grimpeurs / 2020

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This comprehensive guidebook presents all the routes (single pitches, multipitches, bolted or trad, aid climbing) in this amazing limestone mountain range touching the Mediterranean sea.The 616 pages present each crag with photo topos and all the information needed (heights, access, orientation, GPS position, gear).
At the moment the book is available on the internet from https://www.baechli-bergsport.ch/ or https://www.pizbube.ch/ or http://www.kletterfuehrer.net . It is also directly available in climbing stores in Marseille (Vieux Campeur) and bookshops in Cassis.
The Calanques climbing guidebook (new English version)

We spent so many years working on this collection of information, tracking the original routes… so many months climbing up the numerous trad or bolted routes… This guidebook is a large selection of climbing routes in the Calanques. It is the continuation of the previous guidebooks published by the CT13 FFME. We tried hard to meet several criteria: publish a guidebook in a single volume, provide a description of the Calanques that is as thorough as possible, meet climbers’ expectations and preferences, and arouse interest in all types of climbing. That is why we chose to present several new areas that were not described in previous guidebooks. This guidebook is not exhaustive when compared with a collection of 10 complete guidebooks that were published a while ago by Alexis Lucchesi. We cannot claim to be exhaustive because anyone can find traces of climbing or equipment on any cliff, even unexpected ones. Climbers are more modest than we can imagine, and some climbers who discover new routes do not feel the need to shout it from the rooftops! For the topographer, the collection and verification of information is a real vocation. We could never thank our twenty or so diligent collaborators enough. Some helped the editorial team, while others provided us with information, comments, criticism, pictures etc. During our research, we noticed that our work created many expectations but also, sometimes, concern.
Hopefully we managed to fulfil these expectations. Moreover we would like to reassure people concerned about the consequences of this guidebook on the affluence of tourists. Nowadays climbers can choose from a wide range of guidebooks about the Calanques, in French and various foreign languages. There are also many websites dedicated to climbing in the Calanques. This area has growing international reputation over the past decade. The creation of the Calanques National Park has also contributed to public awareness of this area. We would be honoured if this modest book could in some way influence the future of the Calanques. We also wondered whether there would be sufficient demand for a book, because social networks already provide access to detailed information about almost any climbing crag. We won’t solve the dispute between books and the internet here, but we think that both are complementary, and are not competitive. Moreover, a paper guidebook establishes an essential database that can be used by rescue teams in the case of an accident. Finally, libraries are the most reliable places to keep a record of this intangible climbing heritage. In conclusion, we would like to remind climbers that our sport is a marvellous natural activity, but it also involves risks and hazards that should not be underestimated. Each climber should be careful, respectful and use careful judgement in evaluating these risks while climbing. Only then can you fully enjoy all the wonderful moments spent between the sky and the earth or the sky and the sea.

France : Côte d’Azur

Chris Craggs / Rockfax / 2017 (second edition, first edition 2010)

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This book covers 10 different regions in Southern France, including Les Calanques. It's not comprehensive for any area, but it should offer a great introduction to the classics. It includes the most popular crags and calanques of Les Calanques region. The book includes a variety of difficulties and styles of climbing, from steep single pitch sport routes to full day adventure climbs.

100 plus belles grandes voies de Provence

100 plus belles grandes voies de Provence

Nicholas ARMSTRONG/Editions du Chemin des Cretes/2018

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The guide book describes a selection of 100 of the best multi pitch climbs in Provence, including routes from 4c to 7b french grades, entirely bolted or trad. The book explains the access, grades, orientation and photo topos for each routes.
Written in french

International : Europe

Europe Sport Vertical

Europe - Sport Vertical

By David Atchison-Jones, Jingo Wobbly Publishing

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This is an overview book that sets out to list every single crag on the European continent a la Tim Toula's "Rock N' Road". Intended for a broad audience of various languages, the book uses an absurdly complex assortment of symbols & numbers to "describe" each crag without the use of text. The book is in full color, with plentiful glossy photos of various crags. This isn't a guidebook in the classic sense, but it can be a good way to learn about the locations & raw statistics of the multitude of little known crags in Europe. The book indicates number of routes, height of cliff, length of approach, sun exposure, and relative quality for more than 2600 sport, bouldering & alpine crags. The book also points you in the direction of the pertinent local guidebooks. Its a nice reference book, but probably not too useful once you're on the road. Set it on the coffee table or near your procelain throne for a few minutes of inspiration when the local weather is bad.

Rock Climbing Europe by Stewart Green

Rock Climbing Europe

Stewart Green, Falcon Guides

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Rock Climbing Europe is the perfect starting point for Americans on their way to Europe. The book is far from comprehensive, so ensure that your destination is included before laying out $40 or so. If your destination is included, expect explicit, robust, American-style route descriptions (a rarity in European guides) & photo-topos, all prefaced with a good deal of "Lonely Planet"-style traveler information. The book also follows the Falcon Guide system of providing tips on lodging/camping and where to find amenities in the local area. The book is encyclopedic is size, so you may want to xerox the key sections if you're going for a short trip.

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