All Locations > Oregon > Willamette Valley > Willamette Pass

Salt Creek Falls Ice Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Salt Creek Falls

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	Grain of Salt WI5 M10
	Diamond Sea, The WI6 M9-
	Fennesz WI7
	Knives Out WI6 M9+

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Elevation:	4,012 ft	1,223 m
GPS:	43.61171, -122.12852 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	146 total · 41/month
Shared By:	JD Merritt on Jan 28, 2025
Admins:	Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Salt Creek Falls is Oregon’s second highest waterfall, at 286’. Unlike the rare and short lived ice routes in the Columbia River Gorge, ice tends to form here each year, being fully shaded and up at 4000 feet on the wet side of Willamette Pass. The catch is: there's too much flowing water for the creek to ever freeze completely. Ice can form on the flanks, and if the rock stays cold, spray-ice can coat the walls, even growing complex ice petals and daggers on overhangs.

The rock is basalt, in places with semi-regular, diagonal columnar geometry, and in others with irregular pile structure. The mixed climbing can resemble that of Hyalite. When frozen well, all the blocks can be very solid and even thin sticks in turf and moss can hold. When it's warm, the frost shattered rock can be endlessly loose.

Some sections of rock may be dry and solid enough to host rock climbing, but none yet.

This is a popular sightseeing destination, being nearly roadside. If you’re climbing, expect to attract gawkers. Be safe and courteous. Depending on your network, you won't have cell service. Have an emergency communicator and solid self-rescue skills.

Getting There

Recently they’ve stopped plowing the road in winter. Have a snow-park pass and park near the sledding hill, and xc-ski or walk ~10 min down the road to the summer parking. There is an observation deck as well as a trail to the lower observation point. The Diamond Falls loop trail can also lead you near the right side of the falls for top access.

Special Considerations

In progress.

As soon as you're under the falls this becomes a very loud, very wet, very dangerous place. Special logistics and tactics are used here, and this shouldn't be approached as a normal cragging experience, despite the accessibility of the falls.

-Communication: Use walkie talkies to communicate with your partner. There is no cell service, have a satellite communicator for emergencies.

-Self Rescue: have the skills to safely get yourself out of bad situations. Bailing may be unfeasible from certain points, because rappelling could take you into the spray cone. Fixing lines from above to inspect and clean routes is normal.

-Overhead Hazard: Bolted belays have been placed with great care to minimize overhead hazard, but some routes have sections that are threatened. Obviously, this is ice forming next to running water, and the climate doesn't always support good ice formation. Use your best judgement and have the patience to learn how conditions coorelate with forecasts. The ice falls down every year, sometimes more than once: don't be here when there is any chance.

-Spray: bring effective shells and enough layers to stay dry, this is a pretty extreme environment, especially if you're stuck at a belay.

-Toproping: if there is any chance of a party leading that day, please don't toprope.