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Agulles Climbing
| Elevation: | 3,161 ft | 963 m |
| GPS: |
41.60798, 1.78284 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 81 total · 36/month | |
| Shared By: | Maria Salvany on Jan 22, 2025 | |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
Description
The Agulles climbing zone in Montserrat is a historic and atmospheric climbing destination, renowned for its dramatic rock spires and a rich legacy of pioneering ascents. Located in the heart of the Montserrat Natural Park, this area is a paradise for climbers seeking a mix of adventure, history, and breathtaking landscapes.
Agulles is famed for its short to medium-length routes, many of which were established in the early days of climbing in Catalonia. The routes here often range in difficulty from easy to moderate, with many grades below 6b, but their real challenge lies in their character rather than pure technical difficulty.
The climbs often feature slabs, pockets, and rounded holds, demanding good footwork and technique. While the routes are generally not very long, their exposed nature and old-school style make them memorable. Even on easier routes, the distance between bolts can make climbs feel committing. A small rack of nuts or slings may be useful for added protection.
Many routes hold a special place in climbing history. It was a playground for some of the most influential Catalan climbers, who left their mark with bold and visionary routes. The area has preserved its traditional ethics, making it a living museum of early climbing in Spain. Climbing here offers a glimpse into the adventurous spirit of those who climbed decades ago with hemp ropes and homemade pitons.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Montserrat is the unique and evocative names given to each "Agulla" (spire). These names reflect the creativity of the climbers and explorers who first ventured into the area, drawing inspiration from the shapes, features, or cultural significance of each formation.
Getting There
The Can Massana parking lot is the primary access point for the Agulles climbing zone. It’s located about 40 minutes by car from Barcelona, making it most accessible via private transport. During the weekend you have to pay a small fee (about 6€ all day). However, to reach the southern are of Vermell del Xincarró it's more convinient to park either in El Bruc or in Can Jorba (see map).
For those relying on public transport, the nearest village is El Bruc, from which you can embark on an uphill 1-hour hike to reach Agulles.
From Can Massana, a well-marked trail leads toward the Refugi Vicenç Barbé. After approximately 15 minutes of walking, you’ll arrive at the Pas de les Portelles, a narrow passage flanked by the two striking Portelles spires ("small doors") that serve as the entrance to the heart of Montserrat's Agulles sector.
Agulles Sub-Areas
The Agulles region can be divided into four main sub-areas, each with its own distinctive landscape and climbing characteristics.
A) Sant Pau Vell
Located in the western part of the region and set apart from the main rocky nucleus, Sant Pau Vell is defined by a small ridge formed by the hill that houses the hermitage of Sant Pau Vell and the hill at the Guirló pass. In this section lies the Can Maçana parking lot.
B) Pallers
The Pallers sub-area is organized around the lower stretches of the torrent dels Cirerers and the Torrent del Porquer. On the right side of the basin, you encounter the Portella pass, followed by a sequence of small needles and rock formations. The souther part contains the sport climbing area Vermell del Xincarró.
C) Saques
Beginning at the Portella pass and ascending along the upper edge of the cliffs to the rock known as La Bandereta. In the northern part of this sub-area, several needles exhibit vast walls that dominate the north face of the massif. Due to their impressive scale, some climbing guides treat these formations as a distinct entity. Highlights here include Agulla de l’Arbret, Agulla dels Ossos, and Miranda dels Ossos, with the slender Bessones and La Filigrana positioned beneath these prominent features.
D) Bola de la Partió
The fourth sub-area is bounded on the east by the Ampla channel—which marks the division between the Agulles region and the Frares Encantats—and on the west by the torrent flowing beneath the serrat where various needles rise, including la Partió, Cap de Guerrer, La Bitlla, Bola de la Partió, Agulla Reina, and Corona de Reina. Within this section lies the Refugi Vicenç Barbé, a tribute to the young, enthusiastic climber who lost his life attempting the first ascent of La Caputxa. Owing to its distinct scale, Bola de la Partió can itself be divided into two extensive wall zones:
The North Wall (Paret Nord) begins at the Nineta channel on the west and stretches to the serrat de la Foradada on the east, encompassing formations such as the agulles of Saca Gran, Miranda dels Ossos, and La Ma. The West Wall (Paret Oest) starts at the Nineta channel and ends at the Portella pass, featuring notable formations like El Sabre, La Bandereta, Les Savines, and the lower part of Portella.
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