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Mormon Hollow - Right Side Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Mormon Hollow - Right Side

L › R R › L A › Z

	'The Buttress' or 'Delaney Arete' T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bird Battle S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Casio Electric Piano T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Delaney Memorial Route S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Don't Sweat the Small Stuff S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	First Diagonal (aka Tree Crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hollywood and Vine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Holy Braille S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Janitor’s Cadillac, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Methodical Madness T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Methodical Right (aka Pulchritudinous Panda) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mormon Experience, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Original Sin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Phony Maroni T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Priapism S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ramp aka Cursed Slab, The S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Second Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Spring Wall Left T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Third Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unknown 5.8 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Welcome to Camp Hamp Hope S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	You Picked a Vine Climb to leave me, Lucille T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Elevation:	761 ft	232 m
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Description

The Right Side of Mormon Hollow includes everything to the right of the stone staircase behind the Dark Star Boulder. This area includes four areas/buttresses.

The Original Sin Buttress is the first to the right of the staircase and is made up of a few trad/mixed routes and one bolted rou route on the far right. Grades range from 5.7 to 12a.

Next is the Janitors Buttress, which can be identified by the large arching crack that splits the buttress. The easiest sport climb at Mormon is on the far left of this area. Grades range from 5.6/7 to 5.12 with a mix of sport and trad/mixed.

The Priapism Buttress comes next. Another large diagonal crack splits this buttress just the the right of the very classic 12a sport route, Priapism. Grades range from 5.8 to 12a. Half of this buttress is on private property (not DCR) and is closed each spring from raven nesting.

Finally, the Spring Wall is set a bit away for the last section and contains a couple top ropes.

Getting There

When you arrive at the Dark Star Boulders, head right and the cliff side trail will lead you past all of the areas.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mormon Hollow - Right Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 41 ● Methodical Right (aka Pulchritud… Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 40 ● Phony Maroni Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 49 ● The Ramp aka Cursed Slab Sport, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 28 ● Unknown 5.8 Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 30 ● First Diagonal (aka Tree Crack) Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 19 ● Second Diagonal Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 17 ● Methodical Madness Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 49 ● Original Sin Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 13 ● The Janitor’s Cadillac Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 55 ● The Mormon Experience Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 19 ● Holy Braille Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 13 ● Delaney Memorial Route Sport, TR
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a 19 ● Bird Battle Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 89 ● Priapism Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 16 ● Don't Sweat the Small Stuff Sport