Devil's Hopyard State Park Climbing

This is a beautiful fairly secluded state park that offers some decent climbing on rock that ranges from poor to acceptable quality. With thousands of acres of state park and nearby conservancy land that is dotted with ridges and boulders, there is ample climbing opportunity here. I am the only one that I know of who has ever climbed here (for now!), but there are some fun routes and problems. Mostly schist, rockfall will be prevalent in some areas, especially if you are putting up first ascents. There is still ample opportunity for finding new climbs.

The two main areas I have put up routes are Chapman Falls and Devil's Oven. The falls is a literal waterfall that goes from a trickle to raging depending on season, and includes a high-quality rock face that requires lowering from the top and climbing from the water level. Devil's Oven is a 300-foot ridge full of potential options, and is the single tallest uninterrupted face in the park (around 50'). Both areas can be easily hiked to.

Deeper in the woods, schist and granite boulders are prevalent, so there are no doubt hundreds of possible problems scattered throughout.

BE WARY:
• Deer ticks (and Lyme disease) are highly prevalent in this area, especially during shoulder season. Fully cover your body, tuck in socks, and do tick checks when you get home.
• Poison ivy is common in this area. Know what it looks like and pay attention. Be careful where you throw your rope.
• Rockfall is likely. Wear helmets, and do not belay directly below the climber. Much of this rock should not be climbed at all after rainfall or snow melt.